Elliot the Monster

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This is Elliot. He refuses to accept the fact that winter is over. The flowers are blooming, but he just keeps on making snowmen.

I have a series of these monsters that I’m going to be posting over the next few weeks. This post has the patterns for Elliot’s accessories. You can find the pattern for the monster on this other post. And don’t forget to check out Camp Happy Heart Fibre Arts on Facebook to see the awesome monsters she makes that inspired these patterns.

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The fun thing about these monsters is that you can make individual ones like I did, or you could just make one monster, then make all of the different accessories so your monster can play dress up. I have a total of 9 monsters that I’m working on, so expect to see a lot more accessories coming in the future. For now, here’s the patterns for Elliot’s accessories:

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

 

sl st: slip stitch

dc: double crochet

hdc: half double crochet

fphdc: front post half double crochet

bphdc: back post half double crochet

inc: increase (2 single crochets in one loop)

dec: decrease (pull yarn through loop, pull yarn through second loop, yarn over and pull through all loops)

Winter Hat

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Materials needed (with affiliate links):

H (5mm) crochet hook

Caron Simply Soft Party in Silver Sparkle (You can use a different color if you’d like, but this is the color I chose for him because I loved the colors in the sparkle)

Yarn needle

Snowflake button (optional)

Hat

Ch 50, attach with a sl st to first chain to form a ring.

Row 1: Hdc around, sl st to first hdc. (50 stitches)

Rows 2-3: Ch 2, fphdc, bphdc around. Sl st to top of ch 2. (50 stitches)

Rows 4-12: Ch 3, dc around, sl st to top of ch 3. (50 stitches) Tie off at the end of the 12th row (or you can make it bigger if you want extra slouch on the hat), leaving a long tail. Using your yarn needle and the tail you left, weave the thread in and out of the loops in the top. Pull it tight, then stitch through a few times to tighten it more. I don’t have any pictures of this step from this hat, but I do have these pictures from another hat that I made.

Use thread or yarn to attach a button if you’d like. I picked up some simple snowflake buttons from Walmart, but here’s a pretty set on Amazon that I’m planning to purchase. There are others in their drop-down menu that I want to order as well.

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Boots

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Materials needed (with affiliate links):

H (5mm) crochet hook

Caron Simply Soft yarn in black and grey.

Snowflake buttons (optional)

Boot

Using black yarn, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: Switch to white. *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 7: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Row 8: 7 sc, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, 8 sc. (20 stitches)

Row 9: 5 sc, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, 5 sc. (15 stitches)

Rows 10-17: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches) Tie off. Using thread or yarn, attach snowflake buttons if desired.

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Mittens

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Materials needed (with affiliate links):

H (5mm) crochet hook

Caron Simply Soft yarn in blackberry

Poly-fil

Mitten

ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Rows 5-8: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Row 9: Sc in first 3 stitches, ch 2, skip next 2 stitches, sc in last 20 stitches. (23 stitches, 2 chains)

Row 10: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (Work 2 sc’s in ch 2 space) (20 stitches)

Rows 11-12: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Rows 13-14: Ch 2, fphdc, bphdc around. Sl st to top of ch 2. (20 stitches) Tie off.

Thumb

Row 1: Attach yarn into space, work 6 sc’s around, sl st to first sc.

Row 2: Dec around to close. Tie off.

I used a little bit of poly-fil in each thumb to help it keep the shape.

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Scarf

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Materials needed (with affiliate links):

H (5mm) crochet hook

Caron Simply Soft yarn in lavender blue

Ch 7

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn. (6 stitches)

Rows 2-120: Sc across, ch 1, turn. Tie off at the end of row 120. You can adjust the length of your scarf by doing more or less rows. Attach fringe at the ends.

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Snowmen

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I used this snowman pattern that I posted last year to make the snowmen for Elliot. With the pink one, I used 1.5mm crochet hook, Aunt Lydia’s crochet thread, and 6mm safety eyes, For the blue one, I used a 2mm crochet hook, Bernat Handricrafter thread, and 10 mm safety eyes.

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Don’t forget, you can also make Gunther and his accessories:

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The patterns for his accessories can be found on this post.

I hope you enjoy these patterns! If there are any mistakes, or something is unclear, please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know. Or message me on Facebook. If you create any monsters of your own, be sure to post a photo on my Facebook page so I can see. I love seeing all of the things people are creating, and I’d love to see the different variations that people make of these. And don’t forget to check out Camp Happy Heart Fibre Arts on Facebook to see all of the other wonderful creations she’s made.

April Favorite Finds

My main goal in starting this website was to be able to spend my free time creating patterns, which I love to do, and to be able to share them with people for free. But I always had plans to eventually make some kind of money off of this website, even if it was just enough to justify giving patterns away for free. Eventually, I’ll have ads displayed on here, but for now I set up an affiliate account on Amazon. What that means for me is, if you click on any of my affiliate links and order the product, I’ll get a small percentage of what you spend. It’s a win/win for both me and the people who utilize the patterns I post.

It also led to this: At the end of every month, I’m going to do a post that is completely about affiliate products. I see so many cool things on Amazon all the time, so this is a great way for me to share some of those finds with other crocheters, but also a way for me to possibly make some money.

So here are my favorite finds for April:

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A lot of people use plastic yarn needles, but I’ve personally broken quite a few of those. I prefer metal ones, and these yarn needles are only $2.96 for the set of 6 when you purchase $25 of other products. It’s a great deal, and the different sizes are nice for working with different sizes of yarn.

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This is also one of Amazon’s add-on items, which means you have to spend $25, but it’s only $4.19. I have one of these, and I love it. It’s magnetic, so the metal needles all stay in place. I never lose my needles now.

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Do your hands hurt when you crochet? These ergonomic crochet hooks will help alleviate that pain, and the set of 12 hooks is only $19.99. I see a lot of sets like this, but I like that this set has both the letter and the size on the handles.

Yarn bowls are wonderful for keeping your ball of yarn in one place while you work. I’ve seen a lot of really neat ones, but I love this one because you can decorate it yourself. You can paint it to look however you want, and even add embellishments to it. It’s only $24.99 and this ceramic bowl comes ready to paint.

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This is another neat thing I found for keeping your yarn in place while you work. This yarn dispenser has a rubberized bottom to hold it in place, and the yarn twirls while you work. It also has a 4-inch gauge ruler on the base, a stitch marker holder, and a slot to hold a pattern. Plus, it’s only $14.99.

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Awhile back, I bought some alphabet foam floor mats for my grandson, thinking I would also use them sometimes for blocking things that I’ve crocheted. Now that I found these blocking mats, though, I think I’ll be purchasing them instead. They’re thicker than most blocking mats, so they’ll hold a project in place better, and the grid on them will help to get your project lined up straight so it’s blocked evenly. For $34.99, it comes with 9 interlocking boards, plus 30 t-pins and a reusable storage bag.

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I’ve been crocheting since I was a teenager, but up until recently I had never used stitch markers before. When I needed to mark a row before, I would cut a piece of loose thread and loop it through. While you can certainly do that to mark places in your project, it’s sooooo much easier using stitch markers. They can be easily put in and taken out without much interruption, and I love the bright colors. I had a small set of 10 stitch markers that I’ve been using, but I just purchased this set of 104 stitch markers, and I love the container that keeps the colors separated. For only $6.99, it also comes with a set of 3 locking stitch holders.

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I thought these stitch markers were really cool for bigger projects, where you need to keep track of the number of rows. This set of 4 counter stitch markers is only $7.98.

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I purchased this crochet hook organizer back in March, and I absolutely love it. It has room for every hook size that I would need, plus room for a lot of other accessories, like my needle nest, stitch markers, measuring tape, embroidery thread, etc. It’s only $11.99 on Amazon, and I love anything with polka-dots.

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I’m the most excited about this bag. I ordered it on Friday, and it was delivered today. I have a lot of bags that I use for crochet projects, but this one is definitely my favorite. Inside there’s room for 6 skeins of yarn, with holes on the top to pull the yarn through so I can keep it closed while I work, plus there’s extra space to store my project in there when I’m not working on it. I love that it also has room for hooks and accessories, and I especially love that the polka-dots match the pattern on the case that I have, which fits great in the side pocket. For $39.99, this bag is perfect if you tend to crochet in different places throughout your house, or if you want to take your project with you to the park or beach this summer.

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If you have a favorite chair that you usually sit in to crochet, then this storage caddy would be perfect nestled up next to it. For $29.99, it includes a pouch that can hold crochet hooks or knitting needles. The pouch can be rolled up to take with you, or it can be snapped onto the caddy for easy accessibility. And the whole thing folds flat to store it when you’re not using it.

Those are my favorite things that I found in April. Do you have some favorite products that you’ve ordered from Amazon? Drop me a message on my Facebook page and tell me about them. I love hearing about new products, and I might use them in my next favorite finds post. And if you saw anything you like on here, by sure to use my links to order them, and help me keep posting my patterns for free.

Happy crocheting!!

Gunther, Part 2

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If you haven’t made Gunther yet, click on his name there and you’ll find the pattern for him. This post has the patterns for his accessories, although I didn’t get pictures while I was making them, so hopefully nobody will have problems following the patterns.

I was going to split this up into 2 or 3 posts, and post them throughout this week, but it’s been pretty hectic around here. I decided it would be easier to just sit here this evening and type up each of the patterns at once. If you like Gunther, and his awesome accessories, go check out Camp Happy Heart Fibre Arts on Facebook. She’s the one who came up with him and knitted him. This is my crocheted version.

Unicorn Hat

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Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

inc: increase (2 single crochets in one loop)

dec: decrease (pull yarn through loop, pull yarn through second loop, yarn over and pull through all loops)

Materials needed (with affiliate links):

J (5.75mm) crochet hook

H (5mm) crochet hook

F (3.75mm) crochet hook

Lion’s Brand Vanna yarn in white. Caron Simply Soft in multiple colors for the rainbow, and yellow for the horn.

Yarn needle

This pattern is worked “in-the-round”, and stitches are worked through both loops unless otherwise noted. 

Hat

With white and using J crochet hook, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 8: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Rows 9-12: Sc in each stitch around. (45 stitches)

Row 13: Sc in next 32 stitches, leaving last 13 stitches unworked. Ch 1, turn. (32 stitches)

Rows 14-20: Sc across, ch 1, turn. (32 stitches)

Row 21: Sc across, ch 15, sl st to first sc.

Row 22: Sc in each stitch around, working 15 sc’s into ch 15 space. (47 stitches)

Row 23: Continuing working in the round, sc in each stitch around. (47 stitches)

Tie off.

Ears

With white and using H crochet hook, ch. 7

Rows 1-3: Sc in second ch from hook and in each stitch across, ch 1, turn. (6 stitches)

Row 4: Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, dec in last 2 stitches, ch 1, turn. (4 stitches)

Row 5: Sc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn. (4 stitches)

Row 6: Dec in first 2 stitches, dec in last 2 stitches, ch 1, turn. (2 stitches)

Row 7: Sc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn. (2 stitches)

Row 8: Dec. (1 stitch)

Tie off.

Make two of these, but with the second one, don’t tie off. Hold both pieces together and crochet around them, being sure to keep the shape of the ear. When you get back to the beginning, sl st into first sc and tie off.

Make two ears. Using yarn and your yarn needle, position and sew ears onto hat.

Horn

Using yellow (Simply Soft) yarn and F crochet hook, ch 10. Sl st to first ch to create a loop.

Rows 1-5: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Row 6: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in each of the next 2 stitches. Repeat from * around, dec in last 2 stitches. (7 stitches)

Row 7: Sc in each stitch around. (7 stitches)

Row 8: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next stitch. Repeat from * around, sc in each of last 2 stitches. (5 stitches)

Row 9: Sc in each stitch around. (5 stitches)

Row 10: Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next stitch, dec in last 2 stitches. (3 stitches). Sl st to first stitch, tie off.

Stuff horn and sew onto center of hat. Using the other colors of Simply Soft, attach yarn to hat. You can decide on the length that you’d like. After I had the main attached, I went through and pulled each piece apart to make it a bit more wild.

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Leg Warmers

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Materials needed (with affiliate links):

F (3.75mm) crochet hook

Caron Simply Soft yarn in rainbow colors. You can choose the colors that you want here. I used 6 different colors that I happened to have here already because I used them for an octopus that I made.

Using purple and your F hook, ch. 20. Sl st to first ch to form a loop.

Row 1: Sc in second chain from hook and in each ch around. (20 stitches)

Rows 2-12: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches) Tie off.

I did 2 rows of each color.

Roller Skates

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Materials needed (with affiliate links):

H (5mm) crochet hook

F (3.75mm) crochet hook

Caron Simply Soft yarn in black, white and grey.

Black embroidery thread

Yarn needle

Poly-fil

Skate

Using black yarn and H hook, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: Switch to white. *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 7: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Row 8: 7 sc, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, 8 sc. (20 stitches)

Row 9: 5 sc, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, 5 sc. (15 stitches)

Rows 10-13: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches) Tie off.

Wheels

Using grey yarn and F hook, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 8 sc inside of circle. (8 stitches)

Rows 2-6: Sc in each stitch around. (8 stitches)

Row 7: Stuff with poly-fil. Dec around. (4 stitches) You can tie off, or, if it’s not closed all the way, drop a sl st into the middle to close.

Make 4 wheels. Wrap yarn around the middle of each wheel. Sew wheels onto the bottom of the skates. I used hot glue and glued mine on. Using yarn needle and embroidery thread, “lace” each skate and tie a bow at the top.

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Shoulder Bag

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Materials needed (with affiliate links):

F (3.75mm) crochet hook

Caron Simply Soft yarn. I used ocean, but you can make it any color you want.

Yarn needle

Star button (This is optional. You don’t have to put a button on it, or you could use a different button if you want to.)

Bag

Ch 13

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn. (12 stitches)

Rows 2-24: Sc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn. (12 stitches) At the end of row 24, tie off. Fold in half and sew sides together. I attached a loop and sc’ed the sides together and across the bottom.

Handle

Ch 66

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn. (65 stitches)

Row 2: Sc in each stitch across. Tie off. Using yarn needle, sew straps inside of bag. Attach button to the front of the bag.

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For the monster inside of his bag, I used a 1.5mm crochet hook, Aunt Lydia’s crochet thread10mm safety eyes, and the pattern for my Yeti. I wanted him to stick out of the bag, and he was a bit short, so I put some poly-fil in there with him. You can crochet a monster for inside of the bag, or crochet something completely different if you’d like.

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I hope you enjoy these patterns! I had a lot of interruptions while writing these out, with thunderstorms and 7 other people in my house, so if there are any mistakes, or something is unclear, please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know. Or message me on Facebook. If you create any monsters of your own, be sure to post a photo on my Facebook page so I can see. I love seeing all of the things people are creating, and I’d love to see the different variations that people make of these. And don’t forget to check out Camp Happy Heart Fibre Arts on Facebook to see all of the other wonderful creations she’s made.

 

 

 

 

Gunther 2.0

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This is Gunther. He likes unicorns and rainbows, and he would love the chance to spread love into your household. I can’t take credit for Gunther. He is totally the creation of Camp Happy Heart Fibre Arts. She knits some amazing monsters, and this is one of her creations. I loved him so much, so with her permission I’ve written up a crocheted pattern of him to share with all of you. If you’re a knitter, go check out Camp Happy Heart Fibre Arts on Facebook. She has a lot of wonderful monsters that she makes and sells, but she’s also working on a knitted pattern of this guy, so be sure to check back.

Meanwhile, here’s Gunther. After I made him, my daughter named him Gunther, and I have a whole series of these guys that I’m working on now. This post will give you the pattern to make the basic monster, but the accessories will be in other posts, so keep an eye out for them. *Update: You can find the patterns for his accessories here.

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One of my favorite things to do is to look at a picture of something and try to figure out how to make it myself. This one was the most fun because it was a knitted monster, and I was figuring out how to crochet him and keep him as close to the original as possible. I’m not sure what kind of yarn she used, but I knew I wanted something thin and soft. I also knew I wanted to use yarn that would be easy for everybody to find in their local craft store. In the end, I decided baby yarn (size 3) would be best for the actual monsters because it gives you a tighter stitch so you don’t notice the stitches as much, and it’s super soft.

*side note* This is actually Gunther 2.0, because I originally made him differently, more like my yeti pattern. After I had that Gunther done, I wasn’t happy with him, so I started over from scratch. Gunther 2.0 was perfect.

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

inc: increase (2 single crochets in one loop)

dec: decrease (pull yarn through loop, pull yarn through second loop, yarn over and pull through all loops)

Materials needed (with affiliate links):

F (3.75mm) crochet hook

Baby yarn, or any size 3 yarn. For Gunther, I used Bernat baby sport in light lilac. I’m also making some using Loops and Threads Snuggly Wuggly yarn from Michaels.

15mm safety eyes

Black embroidery thread

Yarn needle

Poly-fil

Heart button (This is optional, of course. I found these heart buttons at Walmart, and they were very similar to the one on the original monster, so I picked them up for Gunther.)

This pattern is worked “in-the-round”, and stitches are worked through both loops unless otherwise noted. 

Body:

ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 8: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 9: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (50 stitches)

Row 10: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 9 stitches, repeat from * around. (55 stitches)

Row 11: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 10 stitches, repeat from * around. (60 stitches)

Row 12: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 11 stitches, repeat from * around. (65 stitches)

Rows 13-63: Sc in each stitch around. (65 stitches)

Tie off, leaving open at the bottom.

Insert safety eyes between rows 18 and 19, with 12 sc’s in between eyes. (I like to put the poly-fil in before I insert the eyes so I can decide which side looks best for the front.) Stuff with poly-fil, and sew closed across the bottom. Using embroidery thread, sew on mouth.

Arms:

ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Rows 5-9: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Row 10: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Rows 11-14: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Row 15: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Rows 16-30: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff with poly-fil to row 20, leaving the rest of the arm empty and flattened. You can make the arms shorter or longer by adding or subtracting rows, and you can change how full you stuff them as well.

Legs:

ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 7: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Row 8: 7 sc, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, 8 sc. (20 stitches)

Row 9: 5 sc, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, 5 sc. (15 stitches)

Rows 10-50: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff with poly-fil to row 25, leaving the rest of the leg empty and flattened. You can also make the legs shorter or longer by adding or subtracting rows, and you can change how full you stuff them as well.

Sew legs to bottom of body, and sew arms onto each side. When laying flat, the end of the arm should be about at the end of the body. At this point, you can attach a button onto his body if you want to, using thread or yarn.

And now you have your finished monster.

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Gunther is sitting on a shelf in my bedroom, and I absolutely love him. He’s definitely one of my favorite things that I’ve made. I also made Gunther a friend, Gus, using Loops and Threads Woolike yarn, which is a size 1, so Gus ended up really small.

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Next week, I’ll be posting Gunther’s accessories, so stay tuned. *Update: His accessories have been posted! You can find them here. I’m working on a few more monsters, with different accessories. You can make separate monsters, or you can just make one monster with all of the different accessories so he can play dress up.

I hope you enjoy this pattern! If there are any mistakes, or something is unclear, please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know. Or message me on Facebook. If you create any monsters of your own, be sure to post a photo on my Facebook page so I can see. I love seeing all of the things people are creating, and I’d love to see the different variations that people make of these. And don’t forget to check out Camp Happy Heart Fibre Arts on Facebook to see all of the other wonderful creations she’s made.

Cactus Joe

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A couple of years ago, I made some cute cacti and put them in pots on a shelf in my bedroom. I made those ones with Red Heart yarn, and they were pretty big, but I wrote down the pattern as I made them. A couple of weeks ago, I picked up a bunch of Aunt Lydia’s crochet thread and started making some mini projects. I’ve never really crocheted with thread before, so it took me awhile to get my stitches as tight as I wanted them. I worked up a couple of my patterns using this thread, but the mini cactus is definitely my favorite. It looks adorable sitting on my shelf, but they also make great pin cushions.

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There are 2 different styles you can do, but the best thing about them is that they’re each unique.

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

sl st: slip stitch

inc: increase (2 single crochets in one loop)

dec: decrease (pull yarn through loop, pull yarn through second loop, yarn over and pull through all loops)

Materials needed (with affiliate links):

1.5mm crochet hook

Aunt Lydia’s crochet thread size 10. You can choose the colors you want to use. I used aqua because I wanted them to be darker, but the mint green would also be cute. I used a brown for the dirt, then used a few other colors to do some quick flowers for some of them.

10mm safety eyes

Black embroidery thread

Yarn needle

Poly-fil

Small clay pot

This pattern is worked “in-the-round”, and stitches are worked through both loops unless otherwise noted. At the end of each row, I slip stitch then chain 1 and turn it, working the next row in the opposite direction. If you’d like, you can skip turning it and continue working in the same direction throughout the pattern.

Head:

ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 6: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 8: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 9: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 10: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 9 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Rows 11-21: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 22: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 9 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 23: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 24: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 25: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 26: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 27: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, tie off.

Long Stem:

ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Rows 5-10: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 11: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, tie off.

Rows 12-19: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn. Tie off after row 19.

Short Stem:

ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Rows 5-8: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 9: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, tie off.

Rows 10-13: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn. Tie off after row 13.

Round Stem:

ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Rows 4-8: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 9: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, tie off.

Row 10: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, tie off.

Dirt: 

ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Rows 6-8: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 9: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 10: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 11: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Rows 12-17: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 18: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 19: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, tie off.

Stuff head with poly-fil. Stuff stems, position and sew onto the top of the head. Attach safety eyes and sew mouth on. Stuff dirt, making sure you don’t stuff it so full that it won’t fit in the pot. Sew head to dirt.

You can make little flowers to sew onto them if you’d like. There are a lot of different free flower patterns on the internet, so try a couple of them to find ones that you like.

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Here are the ones I made with Red Heart yarn and put in bigger pots:

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I used blush and applied it to the cheeks of my bigger ones. You can do that on your mini ones if you’d like too. I was planning to put blush on my minis, but I haven’t gotten around to it yet. I also plan to make some other flowers for my bare ones, but I think I’ll look for a different flower pattern for them.

I hope you enjoy my cactus pattern! If there are any mistakes in this pattern, or something is unclear, please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know. Or message me on Facebook. If you create any cacti of your own, be sure to post a photo on my Facebook page so I can see. I love seeing all of the things people are creating, and I’d love to see the different variations that people make of these.

As always, you are welcome to create items from my patterns and sell them, as long as you don’t post the actual pattern anywhere. And if you want to post a link to the pattern, or give me credit, that’s perfectly fine with me. 🙂

 

Eddie the Yeti

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It’s been snowing so much here in Spokane, Washington. Last Saturday, it started snowing again right before I went in to work. So while I was there, I grabbed some yarn to make myself a yeti. I had fun with this pattern, and I love how he turned out. So this is Eddie the lonely Yeti. I made him a couple of friends, so he wouldn’t be lonely anymore. I just got the photos all edited, and got the pattern written up in time for the weekend.

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

st: stitch(es)

sl st: slip stitch

inc: increase (2 single crochets in one loop)

dec: decrease (pull yarn through loop, pull yarn through second loop, yarn over and pull through all loops)

Materials needed (with affiliate links):

Any medium weight yarn will work. I used Vanna’s Choice Lion Brand yarn in white and dusty blue for Eddie, but in the example photos I was making Betty and I used white and aqua.

I (5.25mm) crochet hook. (Or 1 hook size down from the recommended size for the yarn you’re using.)

Safety eyes that look right for size. I used 18mm.

Black embroidery thread or black yarn, or other colors depending on what you want its face to look like.

Yarn needle.

Poly-fil.

Body:

Ch. 11

Row 1: This is worked around the chain you just made. Sc in 2nd chain from hook and in each across, working 3 sc’s into the last ch. Turn and work in the other loop of the chain and sc across, working 2 sc’s in last ch. St st to 1st sc, ch. 1. (22 total stitches)

Row 2: 2 sc in first st, sc in next 8 st, work 2 sc’s in each of the next 3 st, sc in next 8, work 2 sc’s in each of the next 2. St sl to 1st sc, ch. 1. (28 total stitches)

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Row 3: 2 sc in first st, sc in next 11 st, work 2 sc’s in each of the next 3 st, sc in next 11, work 2 sc’s in each of the next 2. St sl to 1st sc, ch. 1. (34 total stitches)

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Row 4: 2 sc in first st, sc in next 14 st, work 2 sc’s in each of the next 3 st, sc in next 14, work 2 sc’s in each of the next 2. St sl to 1st sc, ch. 1. (40 total stitches)

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Row 5-20: Sc in each st around. Sl st. to first sc, ch. 1. (40 total stitches)

Do not tie off. Now that the body is finished, you’ll start working on the first leg.

Leg:

Row 1: Sc in first 10 stitches. Skip 20 stitches and sc in last 10 stitches. Sl st to first sc, ch. 1. (20 total stitches)

Row 2-3: Sc in each st around. Sl st to first sc, ch. 1. (20 total stitches)

Row 4-5: Switch to blue. Sc in each st around. Sl st to first sc, ch. 1. (20 total stitches)

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Row 6: Dec, sc in next 3 st. Repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch. 1. (16 total stitches)

Row 7: Dec, sc in next 2 st. Repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch. 1. (12 total stitches)

Row 8: Dec, sc in next st. Repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch. 1. (8 total stitches)

Row 9: Dec around. Sl st to first sc. Tie off. (4 total stitches) If needed, you can sl st the opening closed.

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Attach white yarn to other side and repeat rows 1-9 for the other leg.

You can stuff the body with poly-fil before making the 2nd leg if you’d like, but I just stuff it when I’m done with the legs using the hole that is in between them. Then I use some yarn and a yarn needle to sew the hole closed.

And now you have the finished body.

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Arms:

With blue yarn, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. Sl st to first sc, ch 1. (10 total stitches)

Row 2: Inc, sc in next st. Repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1. (15 total stitches)

Row 3: Inc, sc in next 2 st. Repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1. (20 total stitches)

Row 4: Dec, sc in next 2 st. Repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch. 1. (15 total stitches)

Row 5: Sc around. Sl st to first sc, ch. 1. (15 total stitches)

Row 6: Switch to white. Sc around. Sl st to first sc, ch. 1. (15 total stitches)

Row 7: Dec, sc in next st. Repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch. 1. (10 total stitches)

Row 8-13: Sc around. Sl st to first sc, ch. 1. Tie off at the end. Stuff with poly-pil and sew onto each side of body.

Face:

With blue yarn, ch. 9

Row 1-8: Sc across, ch. 1, turn. (8 total stitches)

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Now work around the square. 3 sc in first st (on top), sc in next 6 st, 3 sc in last st. Turn and work 7 sc in the side. Turn and work 3 sc in first ch (on bottom), sc in next 6 ch, 3 sc in last ch. Turn and work 7 sc in the side. You should have 38 total sc’s around the square. Sl st to first sc, tie off.

Add eyes and sew on mouth. I added felt underneath the safety eyes on some of them to make them look different. Now, using your yarn needle and blue yarn, position and sew the face onto the body.

For Betty the Yeti, I also added some “hair” on the top of her head and pulled the threads apart to make it curly. I made her a quick bow and attached it to her head too.

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Originally, when I had the idea to make a yeti, I bought Bernat Pipsqueak yarn in white and Loops and Threads Snuggly Wuggly yarn in cobalt, because I wanted to make it really soft and furry. I realized, though, that for creating the pattern I needed a yarn that I could see the stitches. If you’ve never worked with Pipsqueak yarn before, let me tell you, it’s a bit of a pain because you can’t see any of the stitches. Once I had the pattern written up, though, it was pretty easy to make another yeti using my original yarn. So here is Freddy the Yeti. (He’s my favorite, but don’t tell the others.)

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I’m really happy with the way these turned out, and I hope you enjoy making them too. If there are any mistakes in this pattern, or something is unclear, please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know. Or message me on Facebook, because I’m there much more often. If you create any yetis of your own, be sure to post a photo on my Facebook page so I can see. I’m excited to see what kind of faces you guys put on these. Oh, and as always, you’re free to make items from my patterns and sell them, as long as you don’t post the actual pattern anywhere. (Links back to my page are always acceptable.)

V-stitch Slouchy Hat, Infinity Scarf and Ear Warmer

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Fall is my favorite time of the year. I love when it starts getting colder out, and all of the leaves start changing and falling on the ground. But my favorite part of fall is the anticipation of winter. I get sick of winter, and I often dread it, but I always love that anticipation, especially waiting for the first snowfall. It always reminds me of my dad. He loved winter, and he would anxiously wait for snow to fall, and get excited when it did.

The colder weather makes me want to curl up under a blanket with some hot cocoa and yarn, and watch movies all day. If only I didn’t have to go out in that snow, I would want winter all year. But for those times when I have to be an actual adult, it’s nice to have a warm (and cute!) hat and scarf set to wear.

I love the v-stitch, especially for infinity scarves. It works up so quickly, and it looks nice. I make v-stitch infinity scarves for me and my girls every year, but this year I decided we needed a v-stitch slouch hat to go with it. Since I bought a lot of the Caron Cakes last time my Michaels had them in stock, I thought it would work well with these patterns. Oh, and in case you didn’t hear, Caron Cakes are coming back into stock this weekend, and they’ve extended them for a year. If you have a different yarn you’d rather use, this pattern will work for any of it really.

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

dc: double crochet

sl st: slip stitch

Materials needed (with affiliate links):

2 balls of Caron cakes (or whatever yarn you’ve chosen to use) You may be able to finish the whole set using just 1 ball of the Caron Cakes, but I wanted all of the colors in mine, so I used 2 of them and switched colors when needed.

6 mm (J) hook (or size needed for the type of yarn you’re using)

Yarn needle

Buttons (if you’re making an ear warmer and you choose to use them)

Infinity Scarf/Ear Warmer:

Ch 225 for the scarf, or ch 74 for the ear warmer. You can chain more or less to adjust the size.

Keeping the chain straight, sl st into first ch.

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Now you should have a circle:

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Round 1: Ch 4 (this is your first dc plus a ch 1), dc in same space you slip stitched into. *Skip 2 ch, in next ch dc, ch 1, dc. Repeat from * around.

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If you get to the end and you have an extra ch, you can skip 3. This is a very forgiving stitch, and it won’t effect the outcome of the project. At the end, sl st to the 3rd ch in your ch 4.

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Round 2: Continuing around in the same direction, sl st into the first ch 1 space. Ch 4, dc into space. In each ch 1 space around, dc, ch 1, dc.

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As you can see, this stitch makes a “v” and looks quite nice together. Using the Caron Cakes, I changed colors every 2 rows so I could control the colors that were in my scarf.

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Continue until it reaches the width that you want it. For scarves, I usually do 9 or 10 rows:

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For ear warmers/headbands, I stick to 8 rows:

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When it gets to the width you want it, tie off and weave in any loose ends. If you’re adding buttons to the ear warmer, I use the same yarn to attach them.

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Hat:

Starting with your base color (the color you want at the bottom of the hat), ch 11.

Ribbing row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn.

Ribbing rows 2-60: Working in 1 loop only, sc across, ch 1, turn. By working in only 1 loop, you created a textured ribbing for your hat.

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With the Caron Cakes, I did 60 rows for the ribbing to go around our heads. You can make the hat bigger or smaller by crocheting more or less rows, but remember that you want some stretch to this so it stays on.

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Holding both ends together, ch 1, sc across to close up hat.

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This creates a seam in your hat so this will be the inside when you’re finished.

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Round 1: Ch 1. Working across the top of the hat, evenly space 66 sc around.

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I find it’s helpful to make sure you’re working with the same color that you did the ribbing in so that this row doesn’t stand out too much. From this point, the hat will be working “in the round.”

Round 2: Sl st to first sc. Ch 4 (this is your first dc plus a ch 1), dc in same space you slip stitched into. *Skip 2 ch, in next ch dc, ch 1, dc. Repeat from * around.

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At the end, sl st to the 3rd ch in your ch 4.

Round 3: Continuing around in the same direction, sl st into the first ch 1 space. Ch 4, dc into space. In each ch 1 space around, dc, ch 1, dc.

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Continue until your hat reaches the length that you want it. I did 14-16 rows on all of the hats that I made. Making it longer will make it slouch more, but remember that if you’re attaching a ball at the end, it may pull it off of your head if it slouches too much.

When you get to the end, tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

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Using your yarn needle, weave the yarn in and out of each v-stitch:

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When you get back to the beginning, pull the yarn tight to close up the top. You can put a few stitches into the top to close it tighter if you’d like to. Tie the yarn to one of the stitches to finish it.

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Weave in any loose ends, and flip the hat around.

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You can leave the hat like this if you’d like, but I really felt like it needed a pom-pom at the top of it. I love making pom-poms. I don’t have any of the pom-pom makers that you can buy, though. I just use whatever round object I have nearby that is the right size to make the pom-pom the size that I want it.

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In this case, I used my Yoda kaleidoscope. I used each color from my Caron Cakes and wrapped it around until it was as thick as I wanted it. Then, I slipped the yarn off of the kaleidoscope and onto a piece of yarn.

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Centering the yarn around the ball, I tied it tight.

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Then I cut the loops on each side.

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Once all of the loops were cut, I trimmed it all (making sure not to cut the piece I tied it with) until it was a fluffy ball, perfect for the top of my hat.

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I used that long piece and pulled it through the top, then tied it on the inside and trimmed it. And voila, my hat was finished.

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I made quite a few of these sets to test out my pattern, and so that each of us girls would have one to wear. Plus, I just couldn’t resist all of these colors that the Caron Cakes come in.

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And because I couldn’t resist, I made myself an extra warm set using this yummy Loops and Threads Alpaca yarn.

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I hope you love this v-stitch set as much as I do. If there are any mistakes in this pattern, or something is unclear, please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know. Or message me on Facebook. If you create any of these, be sure to post a photo on my Facebook page so I can see.