Cactus Joe

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A couple of years ago, I made some cute cacti and put them in pots on a shelf in my bedroom. I made those ones with Red Heart yarn, and they were pretty big, but I wrote down the pattern as I made them. A couple of weeks ago, I picked up a bunch of Aunt Lydia’s crochet thread and started making some mini projects. I’ve never really crocheted with thread before, so it took me awhile to get my stitches as tight as I wanted them. I worked up a couple of my patterns using this thread, but the mini cactus is definitely my favorite. It looks adorable sitting on my shelf, but they also make great pin cushions.

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There are 2 different styles you can do, but the best thing about them is that they’re each unique.

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

sl st: slip stitch

inc: increase (2 single crochets in one loop)

dec: decrease (pull yarn through loop, pull yarn through second loop, yarn over and pull through all loops)

Materials needed:

1.5mm crochet hook

Aunt Lydia’s crochet thread size 10. You can choose the colors you want to use. I used aqua because I wanted them to be darker, but the mint green would also be cute. I used a brown for the dirt, then used a few other colors to do some quick flowers for some of them.

10mm safety eyes

Black embroidery thread

Yarn needle

Poly-fil

Small clay pot

This pattern is worked “in-the-round”, and stitches are worked through both loops unless otherwise noted. At the end of each row, I slip stitch then chain 1 and turn it, working the next row in the opposite direction. If you’d like, you can skip turning it and continue working in the same direction throughout the pattern.

Head:

ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 6: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 8: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 9: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 10: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 9 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Rows 11-21: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 22: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 9 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 23: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 24: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 25: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 26: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 27: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, tie off.

Long Stem:

ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Rows 5-10: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 11: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, tie off.

Rows 12-19: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn. Tie off after row 19.

Short Stem:

ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Rows 5-8: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 9: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, tie off.

Rows 10-13: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn. Tie off after row 13.

Round Stem:

ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Rows 4-8: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 9: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, tie off.

Row 10: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, tie off.

Dirt: 

ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Rows 6-8: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 9: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 10: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 11: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Rows 12-17: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 18: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 19: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, tie off.

Stuff head with poly-fil. Stuff stems, position and sew onto the top of the head. Attach safety eyes and sew mouth on. Stuff dirt, making sure you don’t stuff it so full that it won’t fit in the pot. Sew head to dirt.

You can make little flowers to sew onto them if you’d like. There are a lot of different free flower patterns on the internet, so try a couple of them to find ones that you like.

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Here are the ones I made with Red Heart yarn and put in bigger pots:

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I used blush and applied it to the cheeks of my bigger ones. You can do that on your mini ones if you’d like too. I was planning to put blush on my minis, but I haven’t gotten around to it yet. I also plan to make some other flowers for my bare ones, but I think I’ll look for a different flower pattern for them.

I hope you enjoy my cactus pattern! If there are any mistakes in this pattern, or something is unclear, please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know. Or message me on Facebook. If you create any cacti of your own, be sure to post a photo on my Facebook page so I can see. I love seeing all of the things people are creating, and I’d love to see the different variations that people make of these.

As always, you are welcome to create items from my patterns and sell them, as long as you don’t post the actual pattern anywhere. And if you want to post a link to the pattern, or give me credit, that’s perfectly fine with me. 🙂

 

Eddie the Yeti

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It’s been snowing so much here in Spokane, Washington. Last Saturday, it started snowing again right before I went in to work. So while I was there, I grabbed some yarn to make myself a yeti. I had fun with this pattern, and I love how he turned out. So this is Eddie the lonely Yeti. I made him a couple of friends, so he wouldn’t be lonely anymore. I just got the photos all edited, and got the pattern written up in time for the weekend.

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

st: stitch(es)

sl st: slip stitch

inc: increase (2 single crochets in one loop)

dec: decrease (pull yarn through loop, pull yarn through second loop, yarn over and pull through all loops)

Materials needed:

Any medium weight yarn will work. I used Vanna’s Choice Lion Brand yarn in white and dusty blue for Eddie, but in the example photos I was making Betty and I used white and aqua.

I (5.25mm) crochet hook. (Or 1 hook size down from the recommended size for the yarn you’re using.)

Safety eyes that look right for size. I used 18mm.

Black embroidery thread or black yarn, or other colors depending on what you want its face to look like.

Yarn needle.

Poly-fil.

Body:

Ch. 11

Row 1: This is worked around the chain you just made. Sc in 2nd chain from hook and in each across, working 3 sc’s into the last ch. Turn and work in the other loop of the chain and sc across, working 2 sc’s in last ch. St st to 1st sc, ch. 1. (22 total stitches)

Row 2: 2 sc in first st, sc in next 8 st, work 2 sc’s in each of the next 3 st, sc in next 8, work 2 sc’s in each of the next 2. St sl to 1st sc, ch. 1. (28 total stitches)

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Row 3: 2 sc in first st, sc in next 11 st, work 2 sc’s in each of the next 3 st, sc in next 11, work 2 sc’s in each of the next 2. St sl to 1st sc, ch. 1. (34 total stitches)

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Row 4: 2 sc in first st, sc in next 14 st, work 2 sc’s in each of the next 3 st, sc in next 14, work 2 sc’s in each of the next 2. St sl to 1st sc, ch. 1. (40 total stitches)

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Row 5-20: Sc in each st around. Sl st. to first sc, ch. 1. (40 total stitches)

Do not tie off. Now that the body is finished, you’ll start working on the first leg.

Leg:

Row 1: Sc in first 10 stitches. Skip 20 stitches and sc in last 10 stitches. Sl st to first sc, ch. 1. (20 total stitches)

Row 2-3: Sc in each st around. Sl st to first sc, ch. 1. (20 total stitches)

Row 4-5: Switch to blue. Sc in each st around. Sl st to first sc, ch. 1. (20 total stitches)

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Row 6: Dec, sc in next 3 st. Repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch. 1. (16 total stitches)

Row 7: Dec, sc in next 2 st. Repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch. 1. (12 total stitches)

Row 8: Dec, sc in next st. Repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch. 1. (8 total stitches)

Row 9: Dec around. Sl st to first sc. Tie off. (4 total stitches) If needed, you can sl st the opening closed.

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Attach white yarn to other side and repeat rows 1-9 for the other leg.

You can stuff the body with poly-fil before making the 2nd leg if you’d like, but I just stuff it when I’m done with the legs using the hole that is in between them. Then I use some yarn and a yarn needle to sew the hole closed.

And now you have the finished body.

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Arms:

With blue yarn, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. Sl st to first sc, ch 1. (10 total stitches)

Row 2: Inc, sc in next st. Repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1. (15 total stitches)

Row 3: Inc, sc in next 2 st. Repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1. (20 total stitches)

Row 4: Dec, sc in next 2 st. Repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch. 1. (15 total stitches)

Row 5: Sc around. Sl st to first sc, ch. 1. (15 total stitches)

Row 6: Switch to white. Sc around. Sl st to first sc, ch. 1. (15 total stitches)

Row 7: Dec, sc in next st. Repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch. 1. (10 total stitches)

Row 8-13: Sc around. Sl st to first sc, ch. 1. Tie off at the end. Stuff with poly-pil and sew onto each side of body.

Face:

With blue yarn, ch. 9

Row 1-8: Sc across, ch. 1, turn. (8 total stitches)

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Now work around the square. 3 sc in first st (on top), sc in next 6 st, 3 sc in last st. Turn and work 7 sc in the side. Turn and work 3 sc in first ch (on bottom), sc in next 6 ch, 3 sc in last ch. Turn and work 7 sc in the side. You should have 38 total sc’s around the square. Sl st to first sc, tie off.

Add eyes and sew on mouth. I added felt underneath the safety eyes on some of them to make them look different. Now, using your yarn needle and blue yarn, position and sew the face onto the body.

For Betty the Yeti, I also added some “hair” on the top of her head and pulled the threads apart to make it curly. I made her a quick bow and attached it to her head too.

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Originally, when I had the idea to make a yeti, I bought Bernat Pipsqueak yarn in white and Loops and Threads Snuggly Wuggly yarn in cobalt, because I wanted to make it really soft and furry. I realized, though, that for creating the pattern I needed a yarn that I could see the stitches. If you’ve never worked with Pipsqueak yarn before, let me tell you, it’s a bit of a pain because you can’t see any of the stitches. Once I had the pattern written up, though, it was pretty easy to make another yeti using my original yarn. So here is Freddy the Yeti. (He’s my favorite, but don’t tell the others.)

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I’m really happy with the way these turned out, and I hope you enjoy making them too. If there are any mistakes in this pattern, or something is unclear, please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know. Or message me on Facebook, because I’m there much more often. If you create any yetis of your own, be sure to post a photo on my Facebook page so I can see. I’m excited to see what kind of faces you guys put on these. Oh, and as always, you’re free to make items from my patterns and sell them, as long as you don’t post the actual pattern anywhere. (Links back to my page are always acceptable.)

V-stitch Slouchy Hat, Infinity Scarf and Ear Warmer

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Fall is my favorite time of the year. I love when it starts getting colder out, and all of the leaves start changing and falling on the ground. But my favorite part of fall is the anticipation of winter. I get sick of winter, and I often dread it, but I always love that anticipation, especially waiting for the first snowfall. It always reminds me of my dad. He loved winter, and he would anxiously wait for snow to fall, and get excited when it did.

The colder weather makes me want to curl up under a blanket with some hot cocoa and yarn, and watch movies all day. If only I didn’t have to go out in that snow, I would want winter all year. But for those times when I have to be an actual adult, it’s nice to have a warm (and cute!) hat and scarf set to wear.

I love the v-stitch, especially for infinity scarves. It works up so quickly, and it looks nice. I make v-stitch infinity scarves for me and my girls every year, but this year I decided we needed a v-stitch slouch hat to go with it. Since I bought a lot of the Caron Cakes last time my Michaels had them in stock, I thought it would work well with these patterns. Oh, and in case you didn’t hear, Caron Cakes are coming back into stock this weekend, and they’ve extended them for a year. If you have a different yarn you’d rather use, this pattern will work for any of it really.

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

dc: double crochet

sl st: slip stitch

Materials needed:

2 balls of Caron cakes (or whatever yarn you’ve chosen to use) You may be able to finish the whole set using just 1 ball of the Caron Cakes, but I wanted all of the colors in mine, so I used 2 of them and switched colors when needed.

6 mm (J) hook (or size needed for the type of yarn you’re using)

Yarn needle

Buttons (if you’re making an ear warmer and you choose to use them)

Infinity Scarf/Ear Warmer:

Ch 225 for the scarf, or ch 74 for the ear warmer. You can chain more or less to adjust the size.

Keeping the chain straight, sl st into first ch.

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Now you should have a circle:

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Round 1: Ch 4 (this is your first dc plus a ch 1), dc in same space you slip stitched into. *Skip 2 ch, in next ch dc, ch 1, dc. Repeat from * around.

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If you get to the end and you have an extra ch, you can skip 3. This is a very forgiving stitch, and it won’t effect the outcome of the project. At the end, sl st to the 3rd ch in your ch 4.

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Round 2: Continuing around in the same direction, sl st into the first ch 1 space. Ch 4, dc into space. In each ch 1 space around, dc, ch 1, dc.

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As you can see, this stitch makes a “v” and looks quite nice together. Using the Caron Cakes, I changed colors every 2 rows so I could control the colors that were in my scarf.

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Continue until it reaches the width that you want it. For scarves, I usually do 9 or 10 rows:

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For ear warmers/headbands, I stick to 8 rows:

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When it gets to the width you want it, tie off and weave in any loose ends. If you’re adding buttons to the ear warmer, I use the same yarn to attach them.

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Hat:

Starting with your base color (the color you want at the bottom of the hat), ch 11.

Ribbing row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn.

Ribbing rows 2-60: Working in 1 loop only, sc across, ch 1, turn. By working in only 1 loop, you created a textured ribbing for your hat.

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With the Caron Cakes, I did 60 rows for the ribbing to go around our heads. You can make the hat bigger or smaller by crocheting more or less rows, but remember that you want some stretch to this so it stays on.

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Holding both ends together, ch 1, sc across to close up hat.

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This creates a seam in your hat so this will be the inside when you’re finished.

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Round 1: Ch 1. Working across the top of the hat, evenly space 66 sc around.

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I find it’s helpful to make sure you’re working with the same color that you did the ribbing in so that this row doesn’t stand out too much. From this point, the hat will be working “in the round.”

Round 2: Sl st to first sc. Ch 4 (this is your first dc plus a ch 1), dc in same space you slip stitched into. *Skip 2 ch, in next ch dc, ch 1, dc. Repeat from * around.

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At the end, sl st to the 3rd ch in your ch 4.

Round 3: Continuing around in the same direction, sl st into the first ch 1 space. Ch 4, dc into space. In each ch 1 space around, dc, ch 1, dc.

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Continue until your hat reaches the length that you want it. I did 14-16 rows on all of the hats that I made. Making it longer will make it slouch more, but remember that if you’re attaching a ball at the end, it may pull it off of your head if it slouches too much.

When you get to the end, tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

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Using your yarn needle, weave the yarn in and out of each v-stitch:

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When you get back to the beginning, pull the yarn tight to close up the top. You can put a few stitches into the top to close it tighter if you’d like to. Tie the yarn to one of the stitches to finish it.

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Weave in any loose ends, and flip the hat around.

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You can leave the hat like this if you’d like, but I really felt like it needed a pom-pom at the top of it. I love making pom-poms. I don’t have any of the pom-pom makers that you can buy, though. I just use whatever round object I have nearby that is the right size to make the pom-pom the size that I want it.

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In this case, I used my Yoda kaleidoscope. I used each color from my Caron Cakes and wrapped it around until it was as thick as I wanted it. Then, I slipped the yarn off of the kaleidoscope and onto a piece of yarn.

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Centering the yarn around the ball, I tied it tight.

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Then I cut the loops on each side.

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Once all of the loops were cut, I trimmed it all (making sure not to cut the piece I tied it with) until it was a fluffy ball, perfect for the top of my hat.

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I used that long piece and pulled it through the top, then tied it on the inside and trimmed it. And voila, my hat was finished.

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I made quite a few of these sets to test out my pattern, and so that each of us girls would have one to wear. Plus, I just couldn’t resist all of these colors that the Caron Cakes come in.

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And because I couldn’t resist, I made myself an extra warm set using this yummy Loops and Threads Alpaca yarn.

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I hope you love this v-stitch set as much as I do. If there are any mistakes in this pattern, or something is unclear, please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know. Or message me on Facebook. If you create any of these, be sure to post a photo on my Facebook page so I can see.

 

 

Beginning Crochet for Left-Handers

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It’s I LOVE YARN day! In honor of this day, I spent some time searching for tutorials for all of you left-handers out there who are just learning how to crochet. There are tons of videos on YouTube, where you can learn how to do pretty much anything you want. There are definitely more videos for right-handed people, but if you do a quick search you’ll find a lot of left-handed videos too. Here are a couple that I found to get you started:

This one from the Crochet Crowd is actually very detailed, and is a great way to get started. Plus, I love Mikey, and he’s fun to learn from.

If you want to just focus on single crochet, here is a great video from Crochet Ever After. I feel like it’s good to learn from a few different people, so you can find the way that works best for you.

And for all of you who struggle with the Magic Ring technique, here’s a video that shows you how to do it, step by step. I use the Magic Ring for any crochet that I’m doing in the round, from amigurami to winter hats.

If you’ve already learned the basic steps, and you’re ready to start creating things, The Crochet Crowd has put all of their left-handed tutorials on one YouTube channel to make it easier to find them.

That’s just a small sample of the videos you can find on YouTube, but it’s a great place to start. If you’re more the type of person who learns from written material, or you just don’t feel like following along with a video, I also found this great tutorial that Red Heart Yarn did, complete with written instructions and photos.

Moogly also has tutorials for left-handers, and has put them all in one post so you don’t have to search for them.

And finally, if you’re having a hard time understanding patterns, I found this site that helps explain how to read them. All patterns are written a bit differently, of course, but if you understand the basics, it will help you to decipher each individual designers “language” that they use.

I hope these links help any of you who are new to crocheting. I’ve been doing it since I was about 12 years old. I’ve had a lot of hobbies over the years, but crocheting is the one I always come back to. It’s always fun to see what beautiful things you can make just by tying knots, and it’s definitely my most relaxing hobby.

If you still need more help, or you want to learn something that isn’t covered here, message me on Facebook, and I’ll see what I can do. Happy crocheting!!

 

Giant Narwhal and Shark

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We love narwhals. They are the unicorn of the sea. This giant, squishy narwhal and his friend the shark are soft and cuddly, and make great pillows. They use a lot of stuffing, but they’re so worth it. With my free pattern, now everybody can have their own narwhal or shark friend.

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

sl st: slip stitch

inc: increase (2 single crochets in one loop)

dec: decrease (pull yarn through loop, pull yarn through second loop, yarn over and pull through all loops)

Materials needed:

L (8mm) crochet hook

Bernat Blanket yarn – 10.5 ounce size (2 balls of dark grey for the shark, or 1 ball of country blue and 1 ball of vintage white for the narwhal)

30mm safety eyes

White worsted weight yarn (for shark teeth)

Yarn needle

Poly-fil (I used a little more than half of a 50 oz bag for each of them)

**A couple of notes before you begin**

  1. If you tend to crochet with loose stitches, you may want to use a smaller crochet hook to reduce the amount of yarn that you use and tighten up your stitches.
  2. As you crochet the body, you’ll notice it doesn’t really look all that round. Once you stuff it with the poly-fil, it will round out. If it’s not as round as you’d like it to be, put more poly-fil in and force it into the places you want it to shape it. Stuffing it extra full will help form its shape, but it will also ensure that it keeps its shape after all of the hugging and squishing it is sure to get.
  3. This pattern is worked “in-the-round”, and stitches are worked through both loops unless otherwise noted. At the end of each row, I slip stitch then chain 1 and turn it, working the next row in the opposite direction. If you’d like, you can skip turning it and continue working in the same direction throughout the pattern.

Body:

ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 6: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 8: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 9: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 10: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 9 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 11: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 10 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 12: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 11 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 13: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 12 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 14: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 13 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 15: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 14 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 16: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 15 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 17: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 16 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 18: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 17 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 19: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 18 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 20: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 19 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 21: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 20 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 22: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 21 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 23: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 22 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Rows 24-29: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn. (If you’re working on the narwhal, switch to vintage white before row 28.)

Row 30: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 22 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 31: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 21 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 32: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 20 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 33: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 19 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 34: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 18 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 35: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 17 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 36: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 16 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 37: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 15 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 38: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 14 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 39: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 13 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 40: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 12 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 41: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 11 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 42: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 10 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 43: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 9 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 44: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 45: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 46: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Stuff the body as full as you can, shaping it as you stuff. Position the eyes between rows 24 and 25 with a space of 12 sc’s between them. For the shark, sew the teeth on starting around row 28. Continue stuffing the body as you go.

Row 47: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 48: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 49: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 50: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 51: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 52: *Dec in first 2 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

If there’s still an opening at the bottom, you can use a slip stitch to close. Tie off.

Fins (make 2):

ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around, but leave the last 2 stitches unworked, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around, ch 1, turn.

Row 4: Sc in each stitch around. Tie off, leaving a tail long enough for sewing. Position fins on each side and sew on around row 27.

Narwhal Horn:

Leaving a long starting tail for sewing, ch. 30, sl st to first ch to form a ring. Ch 1.

Rows 1-2: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Rows 4-5: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 6: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Rows 7-8: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 9: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Rows 10-11: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 12: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Rows 13-14: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 15: *Dec in first 2 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

If there’s still an opening at the top, you can use a slip stitch to close. Tie off. Stuff horn, center on head and sew on.

Shark Fin (make 2):

Ch. 17

Rows 1-2: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 12 stitches, dec in last 2 stitches, ch 1, turn.

Row 4: Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 10 stitches, dec in last 2 stitches, ch 1, turn.

Row 5: Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 8 stitches, dec in last 2 stitches, ch 1, turn.

Row 6: Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, dec in last 2 stitches, ch 1, turn.

Row 7: Sc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn.

Row 8: Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, dec in last 2 stitches, ch 1, turn.

Row 9: Sc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn.

Row 10: Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, dec in last 2 stitches, ch 1, turn.

Row 11: Sc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn.

Row 12: Dec in first 2 stitches, dec in last 2 stitches, ch 1, turn.

Row 13: Sc in each stitch across. Tie off with first one. With second one, put 2 fins together and sc around the sides and top, leaving an opening at the bottom. Tie off, leaving a tail long enough for sewing. Lightly stuff fin, center on shark head, and sew on.

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Here is the finished shark…

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And the finished narwhal…

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I hope you enjoy your new underwater friends. This is a fun pattern, and I love how adorable they are. They team up quite well with my giant octopus pattern.

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If there are any mistakes in this pattern, or something is unclear, please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know. Or message me on Facebook. If you create any sea creatures of your own, be sure to post a photo on my Facebook page so I can see.

 

Giant, squishy, octopus

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I absolutely love Bernat Blanket Yarn, and the new brights are so beautiful, I wanted to make something with them. Since I was already having fun with my smaller octopus pattern, I decided a giant octopus would be perfect. My daughter wanted me to make her one too, so I got to play around with the pattern a bit and came up with these soft, squishy friends.

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

sl st: slip stitch

inc: increase (2 single crochets in one loop)

dec: decrease (pull yarn through loop, pull yarn through second loop, yarn over and pull through all loops)

Materials needed:

L (8mm) crochet hook

Bernat Blanket yarn – 10.5 ounce size (2 balls of main color, 1 ball of vintage white) *You may be able to do this with a smaller ball of the vintage white*

30mm safety eyes

Black worsted weight yarn

Yarn needle

Poly-fil (I used a full 50 oz bag for each of them)

**A couple of notes before you begin**

  1. If you tend to crochet with loose stitches, you may want to use a smaller crochet hook to reduce the amount of yarn that you use and tighten up your stitches.
  2. As you crochet the octopus head, you’ll notice it doesn’t really look all that round. Once you stuff it with the poly-fil, it will round out. If it’s not as round as you’d like it to be, put more poly-fil in and force it into the places you want it to shape it. Stuffing it extra full will help form its shape, but it will also ensure that it keeps its shape after all of the hugging and squishing your octopus is sure to get.
  3. This pattern is worked “in-the-round”, and stitches are worked through both loops unless otherwise noted. At the end of each row, I slip stitch then chain 1 and turn it, working the next row in the opposite direction. If you’d like, you can skip turning it and continue working in the same direction throughout the pattern.

Body:

ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 6: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 8: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 9: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 10: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 9 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 11: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 10 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 12: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 11 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 13: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 12 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 14: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 13 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 15: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 14 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 16: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 15 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 17: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 16 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 18: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 17 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 19: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 18 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Rows 20-26: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 27: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 18 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 28: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 17 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 29: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 16 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 30: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 15 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 31: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 14 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 32: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 13 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 33: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 12 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 34: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 11 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 35: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 10 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 36: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 9 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 37: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 38: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 39: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Stuff the body as full as you can, shaping it as you stuff. Position the eyes between rows 21 and 22 with a space of 13 sc’s between them. Center the mouth between the eyes, sewing it on 2 rows down. Continue stuffing the body as you go.

Row 40: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 41: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 42: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 43: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 44: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 45: *Dec in first 2 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

If there’s still an opening at the bottom, you can use a slip stitch to close. Tie off.

Legs (make 8):

Starting with white, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 6: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 7: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Change to main color.

Rows 8-9: Sc around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 10: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Rows 11-12: Sc around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 13: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Rows 14-15: Sc around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 16: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Rows 17-18: Sc around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

For the first 7 legs, tie off. Stuff the legs a little more than halfway, pushing the stuffing towards the foot.

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With the 8th leg, instead of tying off, ch 1 and sc across the top of each leg, connecting them and closing the opening up.

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Once they’re all connected, they should look like this:

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Slip stitch to the first sc across the top to form a ring:

04

Tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Flip the octopus body upside down and center the leg ring on it.

05

Using your yarn needle, sew the legs to the body all the way around.

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Now flip your octopus over and check out how cute he is!

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My daughter loves hers, and it matches her hair.

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They’re perfect for snuggling, or for using as a pillow. Be sure to check out my other octopus pattern and you can make a smaller version using the Bernat Blanket yarn.

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This is a fun pattern, and I love how adorable they are. They team up quite well with my giant narwhal and shark pattern.

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If there are any mistakes in this pattern, or something is unclear, please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know. Or message me on Facebook. If you create any octopus of your own, be sure to post a photo on my Facebook page so I can see.

 

Octopus Frenzy

I have been making a frenzy of octopuses…..octopuses? Is that the plural of octopus? I always call them octopi.

IMG_5715

This is a fun pattern that I worked up, and can be done with virtually any yarn. I always use 1 hook size down from the recommended for each kind of yarn, just to make sure the stitches are nice and tight and won’t show any of the stuffing. I have a lot of different sizes of safety eyes that I’ve purchased from many different places, so I decide on the eyes as I’m working on the pattern.

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

sl st: slip stitch

inc: increase (2 single crochets in one loop)

dec: decrease (pull yarn through loop, pull yarn through second loop, yarn over and pull through all loops)

Materials needed:

Crochet hook one size down from recommended size

Any yarn will work

Safety eyes that look right for size

Black embroidery thread or black yarn

Yarn needle

Poly-fil

Body:

ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: Inc, 1 sc , repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: Inc, 2 sc, repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 4: Inc, 3 sc, repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 5: Inc, 4 sc, repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 6: Inc, 5 sc, repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 7: Inc, 6 sc, repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 8: Inc, 7 sc, repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 9: Inc, 8 sc, repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Rows 10-19: Sc around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 20: Dec, 8 sc, repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 21: Dec, 7 sc, repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 22: Dec, 6 sc, repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 23: Dec, 5 sc, repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Stop here to stuff the body, position the eyes and sew on the mouth before continuing, filling the rest of the body as you go.

Row 24: Dec, 4 sc, repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 25: Dec, 3 sc, repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 26: Dec, 2 sc, repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 27: Dec, 1 sc, repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 28: Dec around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

If there’s still an opening at the bottom, you can use a slip stitch to close. Tie off.

Legs (make 8):

ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: Inc, 1 sc , repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: Inc, 2 sc, repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 4: Inc, 3 sc, repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

If you’re using a different color for the feet, change colors now.

Row 5: Dec, 3 sc, repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Rows 6-7: Sc around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 8: Dec, 2 sc, repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Rows 9-10: Sc around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 11: Dec, 1 sc, repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Rows 12-13: Sc around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

For the first 7 legs, tie off. Stuff the legs halfway, pushing the stuffing towards the foot.

01

With the 8th leg, instead of tying off, ch 1 and sc across the top of each leg, connecting them and closing the opening up.

02

Once they’re all connected, they should look like this:

03

Slip stitch to the first sc across the top to form a ring:

04

Tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Flip the octopus body upside down and center the leg ring on it.

05

Using your yarn needle, sew the legs to the body all the way around.

06

The bottom of your octopus will look like this:

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Now flip your octopus over and check out how cute he is!

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At this point, you can add any other things you want, like a flower or a top hat.

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For this one, I even made her a hat because she insisted that she was a cat:

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Using thinner yarn, you can make these guys smaller too.

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This is a fun pattern, and I love how adorable they are. If there are any mistakes in this pattern, or something is unclear, please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know. Or message me on Facebook. If you create any octopi of your own, be sure to post a photo on my Facebook page so I can see.