Marty the Moose

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I made Marty the Moose to go with Randall the Reindeer, because I thought he needed a friend. While I think of reindeer as being a Christmas animal, a moose makes me think more of autumn for some reason. In any case, Marty the Moose would make a great stuffy to put on a shelf with your holiday decorations, but he’s also soft and cuddly for little ones to hug.

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

sl st: slip stitch

inc: increase (2 single crochets in one loop)

dec: decrease (pull yarn through loop, pull yarn through second loop, yarn over and pull through all loops)

Materials needed (with affiliate links):

Red Heart Soft yarn in wheat and toast.

Red Heart fall for scarf

I (5.25mm) crochet hook 

18mm safety eyes

Yarn needle

Poly-fil 

This pattern is worked “in-the-round”, and stitches are worked through both loops unless otherwise noted. 

Head

With toast, ch. 11

Row 1: This is worked around the chain you just made. Sc in 2nd chain from hook and in each across, working 3 sc’s into the last ch. Turn and work in the other loop of the chain and sc across, working 2 sc’s in last ch. St st to 1st sc, ch. 1. (22 total stitches)

*NOTE* Photos are from a different pattern, but they show how the process works.

Row 2: 2 sc in first st, sc in next 8 st, work 2 sc’s in each of the next 3 st, sc in next 8, work 2 sc’s in each of the next 2. St sl to 1st sc, ch. 1. (28 total stitches)

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Row 3: 2 sc in first st, sc in next 11 st, work 2 sc’s in each of the next 3 st, sc in next 11, work 2 sc’s in each of the next 2. St sl to 1st sc, ch. 1. (34 total stitches)

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Row 4: 2 sc in first st, sc in next 14 st, work 2 sc’s in each of the next 3 st, sc in next 14, work 2 sc’s in each of the next 2. St sl to 1st sc, ch. 1. (40 total stitches)

05

Rows 5-8: Sc in each stitch around. (40 stitches)

Row 9: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 10: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 11: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 12: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Row 13: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 14: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 15: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 16: Sc in each stitch around. (40 stitches)

Row 17: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 18: Sc in each stitch around. (45 stitches)

Row 19: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (50 stitches)

Rows 20-25: Sc in each stitch around. (50 stitches)

Row 26: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 27: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 28: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 29: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 30: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

At this point, stuff the head, insert the nose and eyes. Continue stuffing as you go.

Row 31: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 32: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 33: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (10 stitches)

Row 34: Dec around. (5 stitches)

Sew end shut. Tie off.

Body:

With toast yarn, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 8: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Rows 9-11: Sc in each stitch around. (35 stitches)

Row 12: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Rows 13-14: Sc in each stitch around. (30 stitches)

Row 15: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Rows 16-17: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Row 18: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Rows 19-20: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff with poly-fil.

Arms:

With wheat, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: In front loops only, *dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Rows 6-7: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Row 8: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Rows 9-10: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches) Switch to toast.

Rows 11-13: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Row 14: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (10 stitches)

Rows 15-22: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff with poly-fil, leaving top few rows unstuffed.

Legs:

With wheat, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches , repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches , repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches , repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: In front loops only, *dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Rows 7-8: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Row 9: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Rows 10-11: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches) Switch to toast.

Row 12: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Row 13: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Rows 14-24: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Row 25: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (10 stitches)

Rows 26-27: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff a little more than halfway with poly-fil.

Ears

With toast, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 5 sc inside of circle. (5 stitches)

Row 2: Sc in each stitch around. (5 stitches)

Row 3: Inc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Row 4: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Rows 6-13: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Tie off. Make 2.  Lay flat and fold in half to sew on.

Antlers

With wheat, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Rows 3-6: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Row 7: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (10 stitches)

Rows 8-22: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Tie off. Make 2. Stuff with poly-fil.

Big Stump for Antlers

With wheat, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Rows 2-6: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Tie off. Make 2. Stuff with poly-fil. Position and sew onto antler.

Small Stump for Antlers

With wheat, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Rows 2-4: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Tie off. Make 2. Stuff with poly-fil. Position and sew onto antler.

Tail

With toast, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 5 sc inside of circle. (5 stitches)

Row 2: Sc in each stitch around. (5 stitches)

Row 3: Inc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Rows 4-5: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Tie off. Lay flat.

Scarf

With fall yarn, ch. 9.

Row 1: Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn. (8 stitches)

Rows 2-60: Hdc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn. (8 stitches)

Tie off after last round. Add fringe to ends.

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Sew all of your pieces on.

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As you can see, he looks really cute without the scarf, so it’s not necessary. But he also looks awful cute with it.

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Just a note here. I used Red Heart Soft for Marty because I wanted him to be soft and cuddly. As you can see, Red Heart Soft has quite a bit of stretch to it so it may leave gaps in your work. You can minimize this by using a smaller hook and making sure your stitches are really tight. Or you could make him using a different yarn if you’d like.

Be sure to go check out the pattern for Randall the Reindeer too.

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If you would like to help support me so I can keep posting free patterns, or you’d like an ad-free pdf of this pattern that you can save and print, you can purchase it on Ravelry for a small fee.

I hope you enjoy this pattern! You’re welcome to sell items that you make using my patterns, as long as you don’t post the pattern anywhere else, and link back to my page if you’d like to. If there are any mistakes, or something is unclear, please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know. Or message me on Facebook. If you create any moose of your own, be sure to post a photo on my Facebook page so I can see. I love seeing all of the things people are creating, and I’d love to see the different variations that people make of these.

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Randall the Reindeer

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Christmas is coming, and Randall is all ready to help pull Santa’s sleigh. He’s soft and cuddly, and perfect for your Christmas decor or for little arms to cuddle.

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

sl st: slip stitch

inc: increase (2 single crochets in one loop)

dec: decrease (pull yarn through loop, pull yarn through second loop, yarn over and pull through all loops)

Materials needed (with affiliate links):

Red Heart Soft yarn in wheat, toast and chocolate

Red Heart mistletoe for scarf

I (5.25mm) crochet hook 

18mm safety eyes

20mm safety nose (you can sew a nose on if need be)

Yarn needle

Poly-fil 

This pattern is worked “in-the-round”, and stitches are worked through both loops unless otherwise noted. 

Head:

With wheat yarn, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Rows 6-8: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches) Switch to toast yarn.

Row 9: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 10: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 11: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 12: Sc in each stitch around. (40 stitches)

Row 13: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 14: Sc in each stitch around. (45 stitches)

Row 15: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (50 stitches)

Rows 16-21: Sc in each stitch around. (50 stitches)

Row 22: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 23: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 24: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 25: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 26: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 27: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

At this point, stuff the head, insert the nose and eyes.

Row 28: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 29: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (10 stitches)

Row 30: Dec around. (5 stitches)

Sew end shut. Tie off.

Body:

With toast yarn, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 8: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Rows 9-11: Sc in each stitch around. (35 stitches)

Row 12: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Rows 13-14: Sc in each stitch around. (30 stitches)

Row 15: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Rows 16-17: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Row 18: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Rows 19-20: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff with poly-fil.

Arms:

With chocolate, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: In front loops only, *dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 5: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches) Switch to wheat.

Rows 6-9: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches) Switch to toast.

Rows 10-13: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Row 14: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (10 stitches)

Rows 15-22: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff with poly-fil, leaving top few rows unstuffed.

Legs:

With chocolate, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches , repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches , repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: In front loops only, *dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 6: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches) Switch to wheat.

Rows 7-9: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Row 10: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (15 stitches) Switch to toast.

Rows 11-23: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Row 24: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (10 stitches)

Rows 25-26: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff a little more than halfway with poly-fil.

Ears

With toast, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 5 sc inside of circle. (5 stitches)

Row 2: Sc in each stitch around. (5 stitches)

Row 3: Inc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Row 4: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Rows 6-13: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Tie off. Make 2.  Lay flat and fold in half to sew on.

Antlers

With chocolate, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Rows 2-16: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Tie off. Make 2. Stuff with poly-fil.

Stump for Antlers

With chocolate, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Rows 2-6: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Tie off. Make 2. Stuff with poly-fil. Position and sew onto antler.

Tail

With toast, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 5 sc inside of circle. (5 stitches)

Row 2: Sc in each stitch around. (5 stitches)

Row 3: Inc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Rows 4-5: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Tie off. Lay flat.

Scarf

With mistletoe yarn, ch. 9.

Row 1: Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn. (8 stitches)

Rows 2-60: Hdc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn. (8 stitches)

Tie off after last round. Add fringe to ends.

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Sew all of your pieces on.

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As you can see, he looks really cute without the scarf, so it’s not necessary. But he also looks awful cute with it.

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Just a note here. I used Red Heart Soft for Randall because I wanted him to be soft and cuddly. As you can see, Red Heart Soft has quite a bit of stretch to it so it may leave gaps in your work. You can minimize this by using a smaller hook and making sure your stitches are really tight. Or you could make him using a different yarn if you’d like.

Keep an eye out for Marty the Moose, coming soon.

Collage2

If you would like to help support me so I can keep posting free patterns, or you’d like an ad-free pdf of this pattern that you can save and print, you can purchase it on Ravelry for a small fee.

I hope you enjoy this pattern! You’re welcome to sell items that you make using my patterns, as long as you don’t post the pattern anywhere else, and link back to my page if you’d like to. If there are any mistakes, or something is unclear, please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know. Or message me on Facebook. If you create any reindeer of your own, be sure to post a photo on my Facebook page so I can see. I love seeing all of the things people are creating, and I’d love to see the different variations that people make of these.

Fairytale Series – Flowers

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The last pattern in my fairytale series is the cute little flowers. If you missed the first post for this series, Stanley the Unicorn,  the second one for Philip the Dragon,  or the third one for Poppy the Fairy, go check them out.

*SIDE NOTE* I have horrible lighting in my house, so I don’t usually take pictures of my work “in progress.” There were a few pieces of each of these patterns, though, that I knew would benefit from in progress pictures. So I took some in my bedroom with my cell phone, using the terrible lighting that I have in there. They aren’t the best pictures, but I figured that they’re better than nothing.

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These flowers are really easy and really cute. They would be great for many different project. You could even make stems for them and put them in a vase or flower pot.

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

sl st: slip stitch

inc: increase (2 single crochets in one loop)

dec: decrease (pull yarn through loop, pull yarn through second loop, yarn over and pull through all loops)

Materials needed (with affiliate links):

Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice yarn. You can use pretty much any colors for these flowers. I used linen for the base, then used lemon and periwinkle for the petals.

I (5.25mm) crochet hook

15mm safety eyes

Yarn needle

Poly-fil 

This pattern is worked “in-the-round”, and stitches are worked through both loops unless otherwise noted. 

Base

With linen, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Rows 8-9: Sc in each stitch around. (40 stitches)

Row 10: In front loops only, sc in each stitch around. (40 stitches)

Row 11: Sc in each stitch around. (40 stitches)

Row 12: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 13: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 14: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 15: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Stop at this point and position your eyes. Be sure you have them where you want them before putting the backs on. Stuff with poly-fil. Continue to stuff as you finish the last rows.

Row 16: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 17: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (10 stitches)

Row 18: Dec around. (5 stitches)

Sl st to close opening. Tie off.

Petals

With lemon or periwinkle, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Rows 5-6: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Row 7: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (10 stitches)

Rows 8-9: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Tie off. Lay flat. Make 8 for each flower.

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In row 10 of the base, where you crocheted in the front loops only, you should have a line around the base.

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This shows you where to sew the petals on. Using your yarn needle and yarn to match the petals, sew them around.

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Using black embroidery thread or yarn, you can sew on a mouth, or you could leave them without a mouth if you want to.

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I hope you enjoy this pattern! You’re welcome to sell items that you make using my patterns, as long as you don’t post the pattern anywhere else, and link back to my page if you’d like to. If there are any mistakes, or something is unclear, please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know. Or message me on Facebook. If you create any flowers of your own, be sure to post a photo on my Facebook page so I can see. I love seeing all of the things people are creating, and I’d love to see the different variations that people make of these.

Fairytale Series – Poppy the Fairy

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The third pattern in my fairytale series is Poppy the Fairy. If you missed the first post for this series, Stanley the Unicorn,  or the second one for Philip the Dragon, go check them out.

*SIDE NOTE* I have horrible lighting in my house, so I don’t usually take pictures of my work “in progress.” There were a few pieces of each of these patterns, though, that I knew would benefit from in progress pictures. So I took some in my bedroom with my cell phone, using the terrible lighting that I have in there. They aren’t the best pictures, but I figured that they’re better than nothing.

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Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

sl st: slip stitch

dc: double crochet

hdc: half double crochet

trc: triple crochet

inc: increase (2 single crochets in one loop)

dec: decrease (pull yarn through loop, pull yarn through second loop, yarn over and pull through all loops)

Materials needed (with affiliate links):

Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice yarn in beige or fisherman (for her skin), lemon, pink, and rose shocking. (You can choose any colors you want, of course, but these are the ones that I used.)

I (5.25mm) crochet hook

15mm safety eyes

Yarn needle

Poly-fil 

This pattern is worked “in-the-round”, and stitches are worked through both loops unless otherwise noted. 

Head:

With fisherman or beige, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 8: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 9: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (50 stitches)

Rows 10-15: Sc in each stitch around. (50 stitches)

Row 16: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 17: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 18: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 19: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 20: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 21: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff with poly-fil.

Figure out the placement of her eyes, but don’t put the backs on yet. Attach hair. There are many different ways you can do hair on dolls, which I go into detail more about in my Amigurami Tips and Tricks post. For Poppy, I did her bangs first, then I attached hair around her hair and pulled it up into a ponytail, then used a piece of yarn to tie it up. With ponytails, you don’t need to attach hair to the whole head; you just need to attach it around the outside since it will cover the rest of the scalp.

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She would look cute with different hair options too, but I wanted the ponytail to match the one on the button. Once you’re happy with her hair, adjust the eyes if you need to to get them where you want them, then place the backs on. You can use blush to give her pink cheeks if you’d like to.

Body:

With pink shocking, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 7: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 8: Sc in each stitch around. (30 stitches)

Row 9: In front loops only, sc in each stitch around. (30 stitches)

Rows 10-11: Sc in each stitch around. (30 stitches)

Row 12: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 13: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Switch to skin color.

Row 14: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Row 15: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 15: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

 

Tie off. Stuff with poly-fil.

Skirt

Row 1: Find the other loop in row 9 of the body that you didn’t crochet into. Sl st into one of the loops and sc around. (30 stitches)

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Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (50 stitches)

Tie off. You can make the skirt long be continuing to sc around, or you could even do a scalloped edge or other edging on the skirt.

Arms

With beige or fisherman, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 6 sc inside of circle. (6 stitches)

Rows 2-13: Sc in each stitch around. (6 stitches)

Tie off. Do not stuff. You can insert pipe cleaners in the arms if you want them to be poseable.

Legs

With beige or fisherman, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Rows 2-14: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff with poly-fil.

Wings

With lemon, ch 20.

Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next 3, dc in next 3, trc in next 3, dc in next 3, hdc in next 3, sc in last 2. Ch 2, turn and work the same pattern in the other loop of the ch. Sl st to first sc. Tie off.

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Make 4.

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Sew 2 together to form the wings.

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You should have all of your parts done now, and can finish putting her together.

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Sew the head onto the body. Sew the legs on, then the arm, then sew the wings onto the back.

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By putting pipe cleaners in her arms, you can pose them in different ways.

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Be sure to stay tuned for the last pattern in this series.

I hope you enjoy this pattern! You’re welcome to sell items that you make using my patterns, as long as you don’t post the pattern anywhere else, and link back to my page if you’d like to. If there are any mistakes, or something is unclear, please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know. Or message me on Facebook. If you create any fairies of your own, be sure to post a photo on my Facebook page so I can see. I love seeing all of the things people are creating, and I’d love to see the different variations that people make of these.

Fairytale Series – Philip the Dragon

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Up next in my fairytale series is Philip the Dragon. If you missed the first post for this series, Stanley the Unicorn, go check it out.

*SIDE NOTE* I have horrible lighting in my house, so I don’t usually take pictures of my work “in progress.” There were a few pieces of each of these patterns, though, that I knew would benefit from in progress pictures. So I took some in my bedroom with my cell phone, using the terrible lighting that I have in there. They aren’t the best pictures, but I figured that they’re better than nothing.

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

sl st: slip stitch

dc: double crochet

inc: increase (2 single crochets in one loop)

dec: decrease (pull yarn through loop, pull yarn through second loop, yarn over and pull through all loops)

Materials needed (with affiliate links):

Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice yarn in fern and kelly green.

I (5.25mm) crochet hook

18mm safety eyes

Yarn needle

Poly-fil 

Pipe Cleaner

This pattern is worked “in-the-round”, and stitches are worked through both loops unless otherwise noted. 

Head:

With fern, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 8: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 9: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (50 stitches)

Rows 10-15: Sc in each stitch around. (50 stitches)

Row 16: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 17: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 18: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 19: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 20: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 21: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff with poly-fil.

Snout:

With fern, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Rows 4-5: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Tie off.

Horns:

With kelly green, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 4 sc inside of circle. (4 stitches)

Row 2: Sc in each stitch around. (4 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (6 stitches)

Row 4: Sc in each stitch around. (6 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (8 stitches)

Rows 6-8: Sc in each stitch around. (8 stitches)

Row 9: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (10 stitches)

Rows 10-11: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff with poly-fil.

Ear Flaps:

With kelly green, ch. 5.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn. (4 stitches)

Row 2: Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, inc in last stitch, ch 3, turn. (6 stitches)

Row 3: Sl st in 2nd stitch, dc in next 2 stitches, sl st in next stitch, dc in last stitch. (6 stitches, counting ch 3 as first dc)

Tie off. Make 4.

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Sew 2 together, but only sew the first 2 rows. leaving the last row unstitched.

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Scales:

With kelly green, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 4 sc inside of circle. (4 stitches)

Row 2: Sc in each stitch around. (4 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (6 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (8 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (10 stitches)

Row 6: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Tie off. Make 3. Lay flat.

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Gather up all of the pieces to assemble your dragon head. Center the snout, and use straight pins to hold it in place as you sew.

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Stop periodically to make sure it’s not shifting or going on crooked. Before you sew up the last few stitches, stuff with poly-fil.

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Figure out your placement for the safety eyes. I don’t put the backs on until I’m completely done with the head, because once those backs are on, you can’t take them off.

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Sew the horns onto the top of the head, making sure they’re even. Sew the ear flaps underneath the horns. Sew the 3 scales on, placing one on top of the head between the horns, and spacing the other 2 along the back of the head.

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Body:

With fern, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 8: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Rows 9-11: Sc in each stitch around. (35 stitches)

Row 12: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 13: Sc in each stitch around. (30 stitches)

Row 14: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 15: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Row 16: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 17: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff with poly-fil.

Back Legs:

With fern, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Rows 6-7: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Row 8: Sc in first 5 stitches, dec in next 10 stitches (5 dec’s), sc in last 5 stitches. (15 stitches)

Rows 9-13: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Row 14: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (10 stitches)

Rows 15-16: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff with poly-fil. Leave last few rows unstuffed and fold flat.

Front Legs:

With fern, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Rows 5-6: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Row 7: Sc in first 3 stitches, dec in next 10 stitches (5 dec’s), sc in last 2 stitches. (10 stitches)

Rows 8-15: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff with poly-fil. Leave last few rows unstuffed and fold flat.

To make toes, use a piece of fern yarn and the yarn needle. Stick your needle through the bottom of the foot…

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Then come up by your decrease row. Insert back through the bottom, then come up by the decrease row again…

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Pull the yarn tight. You can adjust where the yarn goes to make the toes more even. Tie the end and weave them in.

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If you have a hard time with this step, you can always skip making the toes and just leave the feet as is.

Tail:

With fern, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 4 sc inside of circle. (4 stitches)

Rows 2-5: Sc in each stitch around. (4 stitches)

Row 6: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (6 stitches)

Rows 7-10: Sc in each stitch around. (6 stitches)

Insert your pipe cleaner at this point, and crochet around it.

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Row 11: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (8 stitches)

Rows 12-15: Sc in each stitch around. (8 stitches)

Start pushing poly-fil in around the pipe cleaner.

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Row 16: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (10 stitches)

Rows 17-20: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

 

Continue stuffing with poly-fil around the pipe cleaner as you go.

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Row 21: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (12 stitches)

Rows 22-23: Sc in each stitch around. (12 stitches)

Row 24: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (14 stitches)

Rows 25-26: Sc in each stitch around. (14 stitches)

Row 27: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (16 stitches)

Rows 28-29: Sc in each stitch around. (16 stitches)

Row 30: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (18 stitches)

Rows 31-32: Sc in each stitch around. (18 stitches)

Row 33: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Rows 34-35: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Tie off. Cut off the end of the pipe cleaner.

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The pipe cleaner will really only curl the end of the tail, but that’s all of the curl that you need.

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Wings:

With kelly green, ch 5.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn. (4 stitches)

Row 2: Sc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn. (4 stitches)

Row 3: Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, inc in last stitch, ch 1, turn. (6 stitches)

Row 4: Sc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn. (6 stitches)

Row 5: Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, inc in last stitch, ch 1, turn. (8 stitches)

Row 6: Sc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn. (8 stitches)

Row 7: Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, inc in last stitch, ch 1, turn. (10 stitches)

Row 8: Sc in each stitch across, ch 3, turn. (10 stitches)

Row 9: Sc in 2nd stitch, sl st in next stitch, sc in next stitch, dc in next 2 stitches, sc in next stitch, sl st in next stitch, sc in next stitch, dc in last stitch. (10 stitches, counting the ch 3 as the first dc.)

Tie off. Make 4.

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Sew 2 together, but at the top, sew along row 8, leaving row 9 separate a bit.

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Now you have all of the pieces of your dragon, ready to sew together.

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Sew the body and the head together. Sew the back legs on. I sewed them up to the side a bit, and I sewed them so that they hang to the side, not from the bottom, so that they would sit the way I wanted them to.

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Sew the front legs on, but sew them down a bit so that he doesn’t lean too far forward. Center the tail on the back and sew it on, then sew the wings on above it.

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And you have your finished Philip the Dragon.

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Be sure to stay tuned for the other patterns in this series.

I hope you enjoy this pattern! You’re welcome to sell items that you make using my patterns, as long as you don’t post the pattern anywhere else, and link back to my page if you’d like to. If there are any mistakes, or something is unclear, please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know. Or message me on Facebook. If you create any dragons of your own, be sure to post a photo on my Facebook page so I can see. I love seeing all of the things people are creating, and I’d love to see the different variations that people make of these.

 

Fairytale Series – Stanley the Unicorn

A few weeks ago, I was at Joann fabrics looking at buttons. I was just looking for some simple white ones, but they have some of the cutest buttons there, and I can never resist looking at all of them. I found a set with a fairy, a unicorn, a dragon and some flowers, and it was so adorable that I bought it. I didn’t have any plans to use the buttons, but I had been wanting to crochet a unicorn, so I decided the button was a good base. Then I decided I had to make the dragon. Then I figured I should make the fairy to go with them, and I had to add the flowers too just so I would have the whole set. Here are the buttons, and here are my crocheted recreations.

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As a kid, I was obsessed with unicorns. My bedroom was covered in them, and I drew them every chance I got. I eventually grew out of that obsession, but lately I’ve been noticing everything unicorn again. So first up, is my pattern for Stanley the Unicorn.

*SIDE NOTE* I have horrible lighting in my house, so I don’t usually take pictures of my work “in progress.” There were a few pieces of each of these patterns, though, that I knew would benefit from in progress pictures. So I took some in my bedroom with my cell phone, using the terrible lighting that I have in there. They aren’t the best pictures, but I figured that they’re better than nothing.

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

sl st: slip stitch

inc: increase (2 single crochets in one loop)

dec: decrease (pull yarn through loop, pull yarn through second loop, yarn over and pull through all loops)

Materials needed (with affiliate links):

Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice yarn in white, silver heather, periwinkle and sky blue

I (5.25mm) crochet hook

18mm safety eyes

Yarn needle

Poly-fil 

This pattern is worked “in-the-round”, and stitches are worked through both loops unless otherwise noted. 

Head:

With white, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 8: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 9: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (50 stitches)

Rows 10-17: Sc in each stitch around. (50 stitches)

Row 18: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 19: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 20: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 21: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 22: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 23: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff with poly-fil.

Snout

With silver heather, ch. 7.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, and in the next 4 across. Work 3 sc’s into the last ch, then turn and sc on the other side, working 2 sc’s into the last ch. (15 stitches)

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Row 2: Work 2 sc’s in the first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, 2 sc’s in each of the next 3 stitches, sc in next 5 stitches, 2 sc’s in last stitch. (20 stitches)

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Row 3: Work 2 sc’s in each of the first 2 stitches, sc in next 7 stitches, 2 sc’s in each of the next 3 stitches, sc in next 7 stitches, 2 sc’s in last stitch. (26 stitches)

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Rows 4-5: Sc in each stitch around. (26 stitches)

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Tie off.

Ears

With white, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 4 sc inside of circle. (4 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (6 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (8 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (10 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (12 stitches)

Rows 6-10: Sc in each stitch around. (12 stitches)

Tie off. Lay flat.

Horn

With periwinkle, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 4 sc inside of circle. (4 stitches)

Row 2: Sc in each stitch around. (4 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (6 stitches)

Row 4: Sc in each stitch around. (6 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (8 stitches)

Row 6: Sc in each stitch around. (8 stitches)

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (10 stitches)

Row 8: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Row 9: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (12 stitches)

Rows 10-14: Sc in each stitch around. (12 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff with poly-fil.

Now you should be ready to assemble the unicorn’s head.

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Position the snout onto the face where you want it. I like to use straight pins to hold it in place while I sew.

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Be sure as you’re stitching it on that it doesn’t get crooked.

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Before you close it up completely, stop and stuff it with poly-fil.

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Once the snout is sewn on, position the eyes where you want them.

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I like to wait to put the backs on the eyes until I have the head completely done. Once those backs are on, there’s no going back. When sewing the ears on, pull the sides in so that it’s pinched down at the bottom.

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Last, sew the horn onto the center of the head.

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This is the point where I would normally put the backs on the eyes. If you want to sew eyelashes on, and turn your unicorn into a girl, be sure to do them before you put the backs on the eyes.

Body:

With white, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 8: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Rows 9-11: Sc in each stitch around. (35 stitches)

Row 12: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 13: Sc in each stitch around. (30 stitches)

Row 14: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 15: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Row 16: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 17: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff with poly-fil.

Back Legs:

With silver heather, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: In front loops only, *dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Rows 6-7: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Switch to white.

Rows 8-9: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Row 10: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Rows 11-14: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Row 15: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (10 stitches)

Rows 16-19: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff with poly-fil.

Front Legs:

With silver heather, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: In front loops only, *dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Rows 5-6: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Switch to white.

Rows 7-12: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Row 13: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (10 stitches)

Rows 14-17: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff with poly-fil.

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Sew body onto head. Then sew back legs on, then front legs. For the unicorn, I sewed his legs on so that they go sideways when he sits.

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Using the sky blue yarn, attach the main and tail. I cut the tail hairs about 14 inches long, and the main hairs about 7 inches long, but you can really make them as long or as short as you want.

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For more information on attaching hair, you can check out my Amigurami Tips and Tricks post. It also has some other great information that could be useful when working with these patterns.

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And there you have your Stanley the Unicorn. Be sure to stay tuned for the other patterns in this series.

I hope you enjoy this pattern! You’re welcome to sell items that you make using my patterns, as long as you don’t post the pattern anywhere else, and link back to my page if you’d like to. If there are any mistakes, or something is unclear, please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know. Or message me on Facebook. If you create any unicorns of your own, be sure to post a photo on my Facebook page so I can see. I love seeing all of the things people are creating, and I’d love to see the different variations that people make of these.

Todd the Turkey

 

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Thanksgiving is coming. It’s the perfect time to crochet yourself a turkey, either as a toy or as a decoration for the holiday. Todd the Turkey sits about 11 inches tall, and would look great as a centerpiece on your table this year.

**Side note** I never thought I’d google the question “What is the red thing that hangs off of a turkey’s beak called?” But in writing up this pattern, I didn’t know what to call it. I was calling it his “gobbler,” which obviously isn’t right. Apparently, it’s called a snood. Who knew?

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

sl st: slip stitch

inc: increase (2 single crochets in one loop)

dec: decrease (pull yarn through loop, pull yarn through second loop, yarn over and pull through all loops)

Materials needed (with affiliate links):

Loops and Threads Impeccable yarn (or any worsted weight yarn) in soft taupe, gold, claret, pumpkin and chocolate

I (5.25mm) crochet hook 

15mm safety eyes

Yarn needle

Poly-fil 

*OPTIONAL* A small amount of white yarn. I used Red Heart Buttercup yarn, but you can use any worsted weight yarn.

*OPTIONAL* Pipe cleaner

This pattern is worked “in-the-round”, and stitches are worked through both loops unless otherwise noted. 

Head:

With soft taupe yarn, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Rows 8-10: Sc in each stitch around. (40 stitches)

Row 11: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 12: Sc in each stitch around. (35 stitches)

Row 13: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 14: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 15: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Row 16: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 18: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff with poly-fil.

Body:

With soft taupe, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 8: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 9: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (50 stitches)

Row 10: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 9 stitches, repeat from * around. (55 stitches)

Row 11: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 9 stitches, repeat from * around. (50 stitches)

Rows 12-15: Sc in each stitch around. (50 stitches)

Row 16: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 17: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 18: Sc in each stitch around. (40 stitches)

Row 19: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 20: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 21: Sc in each stitch around. (30 stitches)

Row 22: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 23: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 24: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff with poly-fil.

Beak

With gold, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 5 sc inside of circle. (5 stitches)

Row 2: Sc in each stitch around. (5 stitches)

Row 3: Inc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Row 4: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Tie off. Insert a small amount of poly-fil if you want to.

Snood

With claret, ch. 11

2 sc’s in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Tie off.

Tie snood onto beak. Center beak and sew onto head. Insert safety eyes. Attach head to body. You can do this 2 different ways. You can simply use some soft taupe yarn and a yarn needle and sew the head onto the body, or you can use a small amount of white yarn and sc the head and body together like I did.

Wings (make 2)

With soft taupe, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 5 sc inside of circle. (5 stitches)

Row 2: Sc in each stitch around. (5 stitches)

Row 3: Inc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Row 4: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Rows 6-11: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Tie off. Fold flat and sew onto sides of body.

Feathers (make 6)

With gold, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 5 sc inside of circle. (5 stitches)

Row 2: Sc in each stitch around. (5 stitches)

Row 3: Inc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Switch to pumpkin.

Row 4: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Rows 6-8: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Switch to claret.

Rows 9-20: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Row 21: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (10 stitches)

Rows 22-23: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Tie off. Fold flat and sew onto back of body. Be sure to line them all up ahead of time, and hold them in place with straight pins if you need to. I also attached the feather to the body a bit further down to keep them from moving too much.

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Feet (optional)

With gold, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Rows 3-5: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Row 6: Sc in first 3 stitches, dec in next 10 stitches, sc in last 2 stitches. (10 stitches)

Row 7: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Stuff feet with polyfil.

Row 8: Dec around. (5 stitches)

Rows 9-23: Sc in each stitch around. (5 stitches)

Tie off.

Insert a pipe cleaner into the legs, if you want to make them poseable. Sew onto bottom of body.

Hat (optional)

With chocolate, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: In front loops only, sc in each stitch around. (30 stitches)

Row 7: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Rows 8-12: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Row 13: In back loops only, sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Row 14: 2 sc’s in each stitch around. (50 stitches)

Tie off. Sew on buckle using gold yarn. Sew to top of head.

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Crochet up some quick little pumpkins and grab some fake (or real) leaves to complete your centerpiece.

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I hope you enjoy this pattern! You’re welcome to sell items that you make using my patterns, as long as you don’t post the pattern anywhere else, and link back to my page if you’d like to. If there are any mistakes, or something is unclear, please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know. Or message me on Facebook. If you create any turkeys of your own, be sure to post a photo on my Facebook page so I can see. I love seeing all of the things people are creating, and I’d love to see the different variations that people make of these.

 

 

 

Amigurami Tips and Tricks

I make a lot of stuffies. I’ve been making them for a long time, and then suddenly they became very popular, and they became known as amigurami, which is the Japanese art of knitting or crocheting small, stuffed yarn creatures. Over the years, I’ve discovered a lot of little tricks that I do when I make them. I’ve also picked up tips from other yarn artists. I decided, since I have a lot of new patterns coming over the next few months, that now is a good time for me to try to put some of those tips and tricks into one blog post.

If you’re new to amigurami, or even if you’re not, you might find some of these tips useful. I know there are a lot of other things I could include in this post, so I’m sure I’ll add more to it as time goes by. For now, though, here are the tips that I’ve put together.

Gauge

For the most part, there is no gauge in amigurami. Most patterns will tell you what hook size to use and what yarn size to use, but as long as your hook matches the yarn that you’re using, the pattern should work. For example, most worsted weight yarns (like Red Heart) will say on the package to use a J hook. For amigurami, I tend to use 1 hook size smaller than what they suggest. So I would use an I hook. But I could make the same pattern with a chunky yarn that says to use an L hook, and use a K hook instead.

For amigurami, you want a tight stitch. Many people learn to crochet by making hats, scarves, and blankets. With things like that, you want a loose stitch, so that’s how people learn. I tend to crochet very tight stitches because I’m used to making stuffies, so it takes some concentration for me to stitch loosely with clothing and blankets. Tight stitches matter. If you stitch loosely, or use a hook that is too big, your stuffie will end up looking like this…

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Nobody wants a stuffie with big gaps in it. If you tend to crochet loose, use a smaller hook than is recommended for the pattern. It will help tighten up your stitches so that your stuffie looks more like this…

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Using a smaller hook than the pattern suggests will also make your stuffie smaller, though, so if you don’t want that, then you can use a thicker yarn and go down 2 sizes with your hook to tighten up your stitches. Once you get used to making amigurami, you’ll eventually have an easier time making your stitches tighter.

I should also note that some yarn has a lot of stretch to it, and isn’t as good for amigurami as others. I like using stiffer yarns personally. They aren’t as soft and cuddly, but they don’t have stretch to them so it’s easier to get tight stitches that will stay tight once you stuff it.

Decreasing

There are a few different ways to do decreases. I’m going to talk about 3 of those in this post. Let’s start with the typical way. You pull a loop up through the first stitch…

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Then pull a loop up through the next stitch, so there are 3 loops on your hook…

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Next, you yarn over and pull through all 3 loops. This is the way that most people learned how to decrease, and it certainly works. But if you’ve made stuffies this way then you know that the end result shows where those decreases are. It ends up looking like this…

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Most of the time, this is still the way I do my decreases. I don’t usually mind the gaps that show where the decreases are, but I will admit it doesn’t look great.

The second way you can decrease is to simply skip a stitch. I’ve also been doing this method a lot lately. The end result looks like this…

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As you can see, there are still gaps where the decreases are. With darker yarns (like this one) they’re particularly noticeable.

The hidden decrease is definitely the best way to go. First, you put your hook through the front loop only of the first stitch…

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Next, you put your loop from the bottom up through the front loop only of the next stitch…

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Then, pull a loop through both of these…

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Yarn over, and pull through both loops. The end result looks like this…

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Doesn’t that look so much better? You can still see where the decreases are if you look for them, but it doesn’t leave the gaps that other methods do. The only problem that I have with this method is that it works better for right-handed people than for left-handed. You want to be sure that the side facing you is the outside of your pattern, and I find that when I work up patterns the side facing me ends up being the inside. If you use this method with the inside facing you then you end up with a line where the decrease is. For some patterns, though, I use this hidden crochet method because it really just looks nicer.

Now, I have to say that I picked up this hidden crochet method from another crocheter a year or two ago. I cannot remember who that crocheter was, though, so if you know please drop me a comment so I can credit the proper person for this.

Hair

This is such a big topic, that I almost think it needs its own post. There are so very many different ways to add hair to the dolls that you make. In fact, I still experiment with different ways all the time. This is how I do it most often. I cut the yarn to the size that I want, usually making it much longer so I can just trim it later. Then I put the hook through the spot I want the hair…

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I take 1 or 2 pieces of yarn (depending on how thick I want it) and grab it in the middle with the hook…

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Then pull the yarn through…

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Keeping the loop on the hook, grab the other side of the yarn…

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And pull it through the loop…

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Then pull it tight…

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It would take a long time to cover a whole head with yarn this way, and it would also make it way too thick. So I generally only use this method when I plan to do ponytails.

With this doll, I planned to do 2 ponytails, so I attached yarn down the middle on each side, and then across the bottom and back up to the top, leaving the center of each side empty. Then I gather up each side, brushing it out really well with my fingers to make sure it’s all pulled tight…

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Then I use a piece of yarn in the same color to tie it up. Once the ponytails are done, I trim all of the hair to make it even.

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It’s a cute way to do hair, and also works really well with 1 single ponytail because you just have to insert hair around the edges and pull it up.

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This method also works really well if you sew a hat onto their head first. You can simply insert the hair under the hat.

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Speaking of hats, they work great for dolls because it’s less hair to add, but also less likely to fall apart if a child is playing with it.

Hats also work well for curly hair.

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Curls are really easy to make. Just make a chain longer than you want the hair to be, then single crochet two or three times into each chain. You’ll have to test different lengths until you get it how you want it, but it comes out really cute, and you end up with two tails on one end that you can just tie onto the head under the hat.

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Another way to do hair is by making a cap. Generally you can do this by following the pattern for the dolls head, but instead of decreasing, add a few more rows. When I make caps, I keep testing it on my dolls head until it’s the size I want it.

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And there are a lot of different things you can do with hair caps. You can add edging on it…

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You could even add a ponytail or two to the cap the way I attached the hair up above. Or you can just sew it onto the head, which works great for boy hair.

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I found a couple of other methods of doing hair that I haven’t tried yet, but that I plan to. This website shows a really great way to do boy hair that uses a cap but then they sew over it. The hair looks so natural, and it’s very sturdy. I’ll definitely be doing this soon, and when I do, I’ll add pictures to this post.

For more visual learners, there are a lot of videos on youtube that show different ways of attaching hair to dolls. If you want to make more natural looking hair, with a seam down the center, this video shows a neat way to do it using thread, then sewing it on the doll’s head. Or, this video shows how to make a seam right on the doll’s head using yarn instead of thread.

The Friendly Red Fox also has a post that she did showing how she attaches hair to her dolls. There are really so many different ways to do it, so test a few of them out and find what works best for you.

Extras

Here are a couple of little extra tips.

When you sew things together on your stuffie, you end up with ends sticking out like this…

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You can weave them in if you’d like, but I find that takes a lot of time. Instead, I tend to just use my hook to pull them inside of the stuffie…

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It hides the ends, and does it quickly.

If you’re putting eyelashes on your stuffie, and you’re using safety eyes, make sure to do the lashes before you put the backs on the eyes, or else you won’t be able to get them close to the eye. Just find the spot where you’re going to place your eyes, then use embroidery thread and a needle to sew in the lashes.

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Insert the eyes and add on the backs.

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If you want your amigurami to have rosey cheeks, just grab some blush. I don’t ever wear blush, but I have this blush that I bought just for stuffies that I make. I use a brush to apply it.

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If the doll is played with a lot, or you wash it, then it would probably come off eventually. But you can always just reapply it. Most of the stuffies that I make just tend to sit on a shelf, so the blush stays on them just fine, and it adds an extra touch to make them more lifelike.

When you’re sewing pieces onto your stuffie, especially if you’re sewing an open piece on, I find it useful to use straight pins to hold it in place.

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The pins are also a nice way to see how it will look before you start sewing, so you can adjust the placement if need be.

That’s all of my tips for now. I’ll try to add more as they come to me. If you have any tips that I didn’t think to add, leave me a comment or message me on Facebook. I’d love to have this one blog post with everything that a beginner would need to know to start making adorable stuffies. Thanks for reading!

 

Freddy the Fox

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Foxes are such cute animals, and I know there are a lot of fox patterns out there because of how popular they’ve become. I wanted to make one for my daughter, and decided I’d rather write up my own pattern so I could make it as big and as floppy as I wanted it to be. The finished fox is about 15 inches from the tip of his toe to the top of his ears, although the size is different depending on what kind of yarn you use.

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I do love how he turned out. You could also add some eyelashes and maybe a bow on its head to make it into a girl fox if you’d like. This one, though, is Freddy. And here’s his pattern.

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Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

sl st: slip stitch

inc: increase (2 single crochets in one loop)

dec: decrease (pull yarn through loop, pull yarn through second loop, yarn over and pull through all loops)

Materials needed (with affiliate links):

Lion Brand Vanna yarn in beige, black and rust.

I (5.25mm) crochet hook 

18mm safety eyes

20mm safety nose (you can sew a nose on if need be)

Yarn needle

Poly-fil 

This pattern is worked “in-the-round”, and stitches are worked through both loops unless otherwise noted. 

Head:

With beige yarn, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Rows 6-8: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches) Switch to rust yarn.

Row 9: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 10: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 11: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 12: Sc in each stitch around. (40 stitches)

Row 13: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 14: Sc in each stitch around. (45 stitches)

Row 15: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (50 stitches)

Rows 16-21: Sc in each stitch around. (50 stitches)

Row 22: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 23: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 24: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 25: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 26: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 27: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

At this point, stuff the head, insert the nose and eyes.

Row 28: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 29: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (10 stitches)

Row 30: Dec around. (5 stitches)

Sew end shut. Tie off.

Body:

With rust yarn, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 8: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Rows 9-11: Sc in each stitch around. (35 stitches)

Row 12: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Rows 13-14: Sc in each stitch around. (30 stitches)

Row 15: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Rows 16-17: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Row 18: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Rows 19-20: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Tie off.

Ears:

Ch. 9

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn. (8 stitches)

Row 2: Sc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn. (8 stitches)

Row 3: Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, dec in last 2 stitches, ch 1, turn. (6 stitches)

Row 4: Sc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn. (6 stitches)

Row 5: Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, dec in last 2 stitches, ch 1, turn. (4 stitches)

Row 6: Sc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn. (4 stitches)

Row 7: Dec in first 2 stitches, dec in last 2 stitches, ch 1, turn. (2 stitches)

Row 8: Sc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn. (2 stitches)

Tie off.

Make 2 in beige and 2 in rust. Holding 1 rust piece and 1 beige piece, sc together with rust yarn around edge, leaving bottom unstitched. At the top of each ear, switch to black for 2 of the sc’s. Position and sew onto top of head.

Arms:

With black, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Rows 5-10: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches) Switch to rust.

Rows 11-12: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Row 13: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (10 stitches)

Rows 14-21: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Tie off.

Legs:

With black, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

 

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches , repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches , repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Rows 6-9: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Row 10: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Rows 11-13: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches) Switch to rust.

Rows 14-23: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Row 24: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (10 stitches)

Rows 25-26: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Tie off.

Tail:

With beige, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 5 sc inside of circle. (5 stitches)

Row 2: Sc in each stitch around. (5 stitches)

Row 3: Inc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Row 4: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 6: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches , repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Rows 8-10: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches) Switch to rust.

Rows 11-14: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Row 15: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Rows 16-30: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Tie off.

Using yarn needle and rust yarn, sew legs and arms on, then sew tail onto back.

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And there you have your finished Freddy the Fox.

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Try making him with different kinds of yarn. I made the one with the Vanna yarn for me, because I like to keep one of each thing that I make. But then I also made one using Buttercream Angel Hair yarn in white, black and pumpkin and a J crochet hook to give to my daughter for Christmas.

The angel hair yarn is much softer and fuzzier, so it’s great for cuddling.

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The thicker yarn and bigger hook also made him slightly bigger.

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I hope you enjoy this pattern! You’re welcome to sell items that you make using my patterns, as long as you don’t post the pattern anywhere else, and link back to my page if you’d like to. If there are any mistakes, or something is unclear, please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know. Or message me on Facebook. If you create any foxes of your own, be sure to post a photo on my Facebook page so I can see. I love seeing all of the things people are creating, and I’d love to see the different variations that people make of these, especially if you make a girly-looking one.

 

Pillow People

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Do you remember DJ Tanner’s pillow person on Full House? That’s what these remind me of. Funny story, but when I got the idea to make these, I was actually making it for me. A long time ago, I was in a car accident where I injured my neck and shoulders. Lately, I’ve been having problems with my shoulders hurting and being tense when I wake up in the morning. I’m a side-sleeper, so I decided what I needed was a pillow to hug at night to keep my shoulder straighter while I sleep. So I picked up a pillow form for myself, then decided it was too boring, and I needed to do something with it. This started the idea to make my pillow into a pillow person.

My pillow was 12 x 16 inch, but I decided some cute 12 x 12 pillows would be perfect for the grandbabies for Christmas. So here’s how I made my pillow people.

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

sl st: slip stitch

inc: increase (2 single crochets in one loop)

dec: decrease (pull yarn through loop, pull yarn through second loop, yarn over and pull through all loops)

Materials needed (with affiliate links):

Loops and Threads Charisma yarn. Color A will be your main, variegated color. Color B will be your secondary, solid color. If you want to do open eyes on one side, you’ll also need some black and white.

Black yarn for the mouth and eyelashes. If you’re doing open eyes, you can just use the black charisma yarn that you bought for them. If not, you could use pretty much any black yarn to sew on the mouth and eyelashes.

L (8mm) crochet hook (or whatever size your yarn recommends)

12 x 12 inch pillow form

 

Yarn needle

Poly-fil 

Body

With color A, ch. 31

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn. (30 stitches)

Rows 2-35: Sc in each row across, ch 1, turn. (30 stitches)

Make 2 of these, one for each side of the pillow. Since everybody stitches differently, be sure to check your work as you go by laying it across your pillow form to be sure it will fit right.

Arms

With color B, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Rows 4-7: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Switch to color A

Rows 8-11: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Row 12: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Rows 13-16: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff halfway.

Legs

With color B, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Rows 5-9: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Switch to color A

Row 10: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Row 11: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Rows 12-14: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Row 15: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Rows 16-19: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff halfway.

Eyes (Closed)

With color B, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Tie off. Use black yarn to stitch on eyelashes.

Eyes (Open)

With black, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Switch to white

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Tie off.

Now that you have all of your pieces finished, it’s time to sew it all together.

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To put the eyes on, I first used a little bit of hot glue in the center and put them in place. Then I used matching yarn to sew around them and attach them to the main pieces. Once the eyes are in place, stitch a mouth on using black yarn, and stitch a nose on using color B.

You can just sew the main pieces together, and sew the arm and legs to them, but I was worried that would make the arms and legs more flimsy and easier to stretch or break off. I decided to do them differently. First, I sewed the arms and legs to the wrong side of just one of the main pieces.

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Next, I laid the other piece on top and sewed around them, down one side, across the bottom, then back up the other side.

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Be sure when you get to the arms and legs that you sew through all of the layers.

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Once you get back to the top, insert the pillow form.

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Squeeze it tight and sew across the top.

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And your pillow person is finished. I made 2 of them for my 2 grandsons, with closed eyes on one side and opened eyes on the other side.

I think they’re really cute, and the Charisma yarn makes them so soft and cuddly.

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You can also do different sizes, like I did with my 12 x 16 inch pillow, you just have to adjust the amount of stitches in your main pieces.

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I hope you enjoy this pattern! If there are any mistakes, or something is unclear, please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know. Or message me on Facebook. If you create any pillow people of your own, be sure to post a photo on my Facebook page so I can see. I love seeing all of the things people are creating, and I’d love to see the different variations that people make of these.