Kevin the Koala

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My middle daughter collects teddy bears, but she likes koalas the best. I decided I needed to make a koala for her.

I really like using Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice yarn for stuffies. It holds up well to being stuffed, and it’s a decent price. Plus there are so many color choices, which makes it easy to find what I’m looking for. Unfortunately, I couldn’t find the right color for my koala with the Vanna yarn, so I started looking at other brands. I found the perfect color in the Big Twist yarn, which is a Joann brand yarn. When finished, Kevin is about 8 inches tall and he’s cute as can be.

If you want a pattern that you can save on your computer and easily print, this pattern is available in my Ravelry shop for only $2.00. I love printing patterns and saving them in a binder to keep track of the ones I’ve done and the ones I still plan to do.

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

sl st: slip stitch

inc: increase (2 single crochets in one loop)

dec: decrease (pull yarn through loop, pull yarn through second loop, yarn over and pull through all loops)

Materials needed (with affiliate links):

Big Twist yarn in chinchilla.

Lion Brand Vanna yarn in linen and black.

I (5.25mm) crochet hook 

15mm safety eyes

Yarn needle

Poly-fil 

This pattern is worked “in-the-round”, and stitches are worked through both loops unless otherwise noted. 

Head:

With chincilla, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 8: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 9: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (50 stitches)

Row 10: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 9 stitches, repeat from * around. (55 stitches)

Row 11: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 10 stitches, repeat from * around. (60 stitches)

Rows 12-13: Sc in each stitch around. (60 stitches)

Row 14: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 10 stitches, repeat from * around. (55 stitches)

Row 15: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 9 stitches, repeat from * around. (50 stitches)

Row 16: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 17: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 18: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 19: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 20: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 21: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff with polyfil. Insert eyes between rows 11 and 12 with 13 stitches in between them. I like to wait to put the backs on the safety eyes until I have the nose sewn on, just in case I want to adjust their placement.

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Nose:

With black, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: Sc in first 3 stitches, inc in next 4 stitches, sc in last 3 stitches. (14 stitches)

Row 3: Sc in each stitch around. (14 stitches)

Tie off. Position on face in between eyes and sew on. You can use straight pins to hold it in place if you’d like.

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Before closing, stuff some polyfil into the nose.

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Ears:

With chincilla, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Rows 5-7: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Tie off. Fold flat. The ears will have a slight curve to them.

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Lay ears on face so that they almost touch the eyes. You can use straight pins to hold them in place if you’d like.

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Sew on, following the curve of the ear.

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Cut pieces of linen yarn and attach them close to the ear to create the hair.

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Trim them to the size you want.

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Pull each strand apart to make them fuzzier.

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Body:

With chincilla, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Rows 5-13: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Row 14: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff tight with polyfil.

Arms:

With linen, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Switch to chinchilla.

Row 3: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (10 stitches)

Rows 4-13: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff halfway with polyfil.

Legs:

With linen, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Switch to chinchilla.

Row 4: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Rows 5-10: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff tight with polyfil.

Tail:

With chinchilla, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Tie off.

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Sew body onto head. Sew legs onto body, making sure to keep them even. You want them slightly towards the front, but mostly facing the sides. Using straight pins to put them in place will help you to get them even.

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Sew arms on. Sew tail on back, making sure to position it low enough that it will help balance the koala. Stuff some polyfil into the tail before closing off. You can also add more linen yarn to the tail to make it fluffier.

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When the koala sits, his tail and legs should keep him balanced.

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Using your black yarn, sew on a mouth, eyebrows and “claws” on his feet. You can do other things with him too, like add felt under his eyes. I made another one using a smaller hook, so he’s just slightly smaller than Kevin.

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I like both of them, but as you can see adding the felt gave him a different look and expression.

I hope you enjoy this pattern! You’re welcome to sell items that you make using my patterns, as long as you don’t post the pattern anywhere else, and link back to my page if you’d like to. If there are any mistakes, or something is unclear, please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know. Or message me on Facebook. If you create any koalas of your own, be sure to post a photo on my Facebook page so I can see. I love seeing all of the things people are creating, and I’d love to see the different variations that people make of these.

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What Do I Do With All of This Scrap Yarn?

If you’re a crocheter, or a knitter, then you know that a lot of the time you finish your project and you still have yarn left. What do you do with it? If you’re like me, you throw it in a bin or bag and move on to the next, fresh new skein of yarn. Eventually, though, those scraps of yarn start to build up, and it’s tough to get yourself to just throw it away. You paid good money for that yarn, and you’re just sure you’ll end up needing it the minute it’s in the trash.

I recently had a conversation with a friend about what to do with all of that scrap yarn. There are really a lot of possibilities. I found a few ideas that I love, and I thought I’d share them with you.

Donate Your Yarn

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If you have a bunch of scrap yarn that is cluttering up your house, and you know you’ll probably never get around to doing anything with it, consider donating it. Call up a local daycare, preschool or elementary school and see if they have a use for it. Call some senior centers or nursing homes. There are a lot of crafts out there that only require a bit of yarn, and some of these places may be able to put your scraps to good use. Plus, it can be tough for them to budget in art and craft supplies, so they may be thrilled to receive your donation. This post on Craftsy talks a bit about donating your yarn, but also gives a neat idea for organizing and storing your scraps.

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You could also donate it to the birds. I thought this was a neat idea, because it would help birds make strong, warm nests. Plus, it makes them more colorful. If your scraps of yarn are too small to really do anything with them, then this could be a neat alternative to throwing them away. I’m not sure how safe it is for birds, so maybe do a bit of research on type of yarn first.

Make Some Words

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If you have kids, this could be a fun project for them to use up those scraps of yarn. Just grab some pipe cleaners next time you’re at the craft store.

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With a glue gun, some scrap yarn, and a few embellishments, you can make a pretty letter to hang on your wall.

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Or you can be a little bit more elaborate and make a whole name to hang on your wall.

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You could also grab some nails and turn a boring fence into a great place to hang out, and a pretty background for photographs.

Make Some Art

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This art project would be really cute hanging in a nursery, and if you have enough colors you could even do a more detailed design. This is done with rolls of yarn, but you could easily do it with pom-poms too.

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You can turn your scraps of yarn into a pretty centerpiece for your table by gluing it to styrofoam balls.

Wrap Some Presents

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You can use that extra yarn to wrap around gifts for an extra little touch. Attach a pom-pom or two, and it will look even better.

Make Some Bookmarks

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Bookmarks made out of yarn are such a cute idea. You could really crochet pretty much anything to use as a bookmark, but I particularly liked these Harry Potter themed scarf bookmarks.

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These pom-pom bookmarks don’t require any crocheting at all. It’s a project your kids could actually do with their scrap yarn, and would make cute gifts for their teachers.

Make Some Hat Ornaments

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I thought these cute hats were a great alternative to making pom-poms. They’re easy enough for kids to do, and they’d make great decorations to hang around your house all winter long. You could even make a couple of them and add them to the top of your packages during the holidays. I make hats and scarves for everybody in the family for Christmas. I think these would be cute on top of those presents.

Make an Afghan

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There are a lot of afghan patterns out there that are designed for using up scraps of yarn, but almost any pattern will work really, as long as you don’t mind sudden color changes and no real color scheme. A granny stitch blanket works well for this because it shows off each color quite well.

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Ripple afghans also look nice with scraps of yarn because the ripples make the colors all stand out quite well.

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You could also make hexagons with your scrap yarn and sew them together when you have enough for a blanket. I think this is a neat idea if you have a bin or something to throw them in. Just grab that leftover yarn when it starts to get overwhelming and crochet up some hexagons.

Make Some Pom-poms

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Making pom-poms is my favorite thing to do with scrap yarn. I always like attaching them to hats that I make, but there are so many different things you can do with pom-poms. Go check out my pom-pom post to see a few of my favorite ideas.

I hope this post was helpful. What do you do with your scrap yarn? Have you found other ideas that aren’t listed here? Go drop by my Facebook page and tell me about it, or post photos of things you’ve made with scrap yarn.

 

 

 

 

V-Pop Hat and Scarf Set

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This is one of the coldest, and craziest, winters I’ve ever seen. With snow down in Florida, the Carolinas, and Texas, and the “Bomb Cyclone” on the east coast, I figure everybody needs lots of ways to bundle up. I love making hat and scarf sets, so I’ve been spending my time designing some new patterns.

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When it comes to hat and scarves, I like textures and patterns. I wanted something that would be textured, but would also have a pretty pattern to it. I combined the popcorn stitch and the v-stitch to come up with this V-Pop hat and scarf set.

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This pattern is made as a “one size fits most” design, but you could really adjust it to fit other sizes if you want to by changing the numbers in your starting chain. As long as you stick to a multiple of 3, the pattern should still come out just fine.

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I like hats that are slightly slouchy, but my middle daughter loves her hats to slouch more. You could add a few more v-stitch rows at the end to make this hat more slouchy if you prefer it that way. It’s a fairly versatile pattern that can be made with any yarn, as long as you adjust for the thickness. And really, just look at those textures.

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This pattern is free here on my blog, but if you want a pattern that you can save on your computer and easily print, this pattern is available in my Ravelry shop for only $2.00.  I love printing patterns and saving them in a binder to keep track of the ones I’ve done and the ones I still plan to do.

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

sl st: slip stitch

hdc: half double crochet

fphdc: front post half double crochet

bphdc: back post half double crochet

dc: double crochet

Materials needed (with affiliate links):

Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice yarn. I did this hat in Dusty Blue. You can use any worsted weight yarn.

J (6mm) crochet hook

Yarn needle

Special stitch:

This pattern uses a 3 dc popcorn stitch. To make a popcorn stitch, work 3 dc’s into the same space.

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Remove your hook, insert it into the first dc of the 3.

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Grab the loop and pull it through.

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By going through the back, this will make the popcorn stitch “pop” out on the opposite side, which makes that the front of your hat.

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You can also insert the hook from the front to the back, which will make your popcorn “pop” out on the side facing you instead. It’s really your choice, just remember to be consistent so you have a distinct inside and outside for your hat.

Hat:

Ch. 75. (You can change the size of the hat here by changing the starting chain. Just stick to a multiple of 3 and the pattern will still work.) Sl st to first ch to form a ring.

Row 1: Ch 2, hdc in each ch around, sl st into ch 2. (75 stitches)

Rows 2-5: Ch 2, fphdc, bphdc around, sl st into ch 2. (75 stitches)

Row 6: Ch 4 (this is your first dc plus a ch 1), dc in same space you slip stitched into. *Skip 2, in next stitch dc, ch 1, dc. Repeat from * around. Sl st into the 3rd ch of your ch 4. (25 v-stitches)

Row 7: Ch 1, sc around, sl st to first sc. Be sure to sc into each dc and each ch 1 space. (75 stitches)

Row 8: Ch 2, hdc around, sl st to first hdc. (75 stitches)

Row 9: Ch 1, sc around, sl st to first sc. (75 stitches)

Row 10: Ch 4 (this is your first dc plus a ch 1), dc in same space you slip stitched into. *Skip 2. In next stitch dc, ch 1, dc to make your “V.”  Repeat from * around. Sl st into the 3rd ch of your ch 4. (25 v-stitches)

Row 11: Ch 1, sc around, sl st to first sc. (75 stitches)

Row 12: Ch 3, *dc in first 2 stitches, work popcorn stitch into next stitch. Repeat from * around. Sl st into ch 3. (75 stitches, counting each popcorn stitch as 1 stitch)

Row 13: Ch 1, sc around, sl st to first sc. (75 stitches)

Row 14: Ch 4 (this is your first dc plus a ch 1), dc in same space you slip stitched into. *Skip 2. In next stitch dc, ch 1, dc to make your “V.”  Repeat from * around. Sl st into the 3rd ch of your ch 4. (25 v-stitches)

Row 15: Ch 1, sc around, sl st to first sc. (75 stitches)

Row 16: Ch 3, *dc in first 2 stitches, work popcorn stitch into next stitch. Repeat from * around. Sl st into ch 3. (75 stitches, counting each popcorn stitch as 1 stitch)

Row 17: Ch 1, sc around, sl st to first sc. (75 stitches)

Row 18: Ch 4 (this is your first dc plus a ch 1), dc in same space you slip stitched into. *Skip 2. In next stitch dc, ch 1, dc to make your “V.”  Repeat from * around. Sl st into the 3rd ch of your ch 4. (25 v-stitches)

Row 19: Ch 1, sc around, sl st to first sc. (75 stitches)

Row 20: Ch 3, *dc in first 2 stitches, work popcorn stitch into next stitch. Repeat from * around. Sl st into ch 3. (75 stitches, counting each popcorn stitch as 1 stitch)

Row 21: Ch 1, sc around, sl st to first sc. (75 stitches)

Row 22: Ch 4 (this is your first dc plus a ch 1), dc in same space you slip stitched into. *Skip 2. In next stitch dc, ch 1, dc to make your “V.”  Repeat from * around. Sl st into the 3rd ch of your ch 4. (25 v-stitches)

Row 23: Ch 1, sc around, sl st to first sc. (75 stitches)

Row 24: Ch 2, hdc around, sl st to first hdc. (75 stitches)

Row 25: Ch 1, sc around, sl st to first sc. (75 stitches)

Row 26: Ch 4 (this is your first dc plus a ch 1), dc in same space you slip stitched into. *Skip 2. In next stitch dc, ch 1, dc to make your “V.”  Repeat from * around. Sl st into the 3rd ch of your ch 4. (25 v-stitches)

You can add a few more v-stitch rows to give it more slouch, or tie off after row 26, leaving a long tail to sew the end together. Using your yarn needle, weave the tail in and out of each v-stitch:

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When you get back to the beginning, pull the yarn tight to close up the top. You can put a few stitches into the top to close it tighter if you’d like to. Tie the yarn to one of the stitches to finish it.

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Attach a fur or yarn pom-pom to the top.

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Scarf:

Ch. 228. My finished scarf measures about 5 and 1/2 feet long, so if you want it longer or shorter you can adjust that by changing the count on your starting chain. Just keep it in multiples of 3 + 3.

For example, if I wanted it to be a bit longer, I could start with a ch of 243. 80 x 3 = 240 + 3 = 243. Just make sure you use a multiple of 3, then add 3 to it.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (227 stitches)

Row 2: Ch 3. (Counts as first dc here and throughout.) Skip next stitch. In next stitch, dc, ch 1, dc to make your V-stitch. *Skip 2. Work V-stitch into next stitch. Repeat from * across until you get to the last 2 stitches. Skip next stitch, dc in last stitch, turn. (75 v-stitches)

*NOTE* When a pattern says that your ch counts as the first stitch, that almost always means that you skip the stitch directly under that chain. In Row 2, where it says “skip next stitch” that means you also skip the stitch in front of it.

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Row 3: Ch 1, sc around, turn. Be sure to sc into each dc and each ch 1 space. (227 stitches)

Row 4: Ch 3. (Counts as first dc here and throughout.) Dc in next stitch, work popcorn stitch into next stitch. *Dc in next 2 stitches, work popcorn stitch into next stitch. Repeat from * across. Dc in last 2 stitches, turn. (227 stitches, counting each popcorn stitch as 1 stitch)

Row 5: Ch 1, sc around, turn. (227 stitches)

Row 6: Ch 3. Skip next stitch. In next stitch, dc, ch 1, dc to make your V-stitch. *Skip 2. Work V-stitch into next stitch. Repeat from * across until you get to the last 2 stitches. Skip next stitch, dc in last stitch, turn. (75 v-stitches)

Row 7: Ch 1, sc around, turn. (227 stitches)

Row 8: Ch 3. Dc in next stitch, work popcorn stitch into next stitch. *Dc in next 2 stitches, work popcorn stitch into next stitch. Repeat from * across. Dc in last 2 stitches, turn. (227 stitches, counting each popcorn stitch as 1 stitch)

Row 9: Ch 1, sc around, turn. (227 stitches)

Row 10: Ch 3. Skip next stitch. In next stitch, dc, ch 1, dc to make your V-stitch. *Skip 2. Work V-stitch into next stitch. Repeat from * across until you get to the last 2 stitches. Skip next stitch, dc in last stitch, turn. (75 v-stitches)

Row 11: Ch 1, sc around, turn. (227 stitches)

Row 12: Ch 3. Dc in next stitch, work popcorn stitch into next stitch. *Dc in next 2 stitches, work popcorn stitch into next stitch. Repeat from * across. Dc in last 2 stitches, turn. (227 stitches, counting each popcorn stitch as 1 stitch)

Row 13: Ch 1, sc around, turn. (227 stitches)

Row 14: Ch 3. Skip next stitch. In next stitch, dc, ch 1, dc to make your V-stitch. *Skip 2. Work V-stitch into next stitch. Repeat from * across until you get to the last 2 stitches. Skip next stitch, dc in last stitch, turn. (75 v-stitches)

Row 15: Ch 1, sc around, turn. (227 stitches)

Tie off. Weave in ends. Attach fringe at each end of scarf.

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I also made this set using Loops and Threads Barcelona in Onyx, which is a size 5 bulky yarn. I used a J hook and followed the same pattern, and it only came out a little bit bigger.

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I love the Barcelona yarn because the colors on them are beautiful, and the color changes really show off this pattern more.

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Eventually, I’ll try it in some other yarns to see how it works with different colors and textures. I hope you love this set as much as I do. If there are any mistakes in this pattern, or something is unclear, please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know. Or message me on Facebook. If you create any of these, be sure to post a photo on my Facebook page so I can see.

 

 

Pom Pom Party

I must admit, I love pom poms. I love making hats and putting pom poms on them, but I’m always wanting to do more with them. I decided this was a good time to do a post about all the things you can do with pom poms.

But first, let’s talk about making pom poms. The greatest thing about them, I think, is that anybody can make them. You don’t need to know how to crochet or knit to learn how to make pom poms. And there are so many different ways to make them too.

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You can buy yourself some pom pom makers like these. They come in 4 different sizes for all of your pom pom needs. Is it possible to have pom pom needs? I think it is.

Personally, I own pom pom makers in many different sizes. But I’ve actually never used them. I don’t even know where they are. When I want to make a pom pom, I just look for something round. A soda bottle, a paint bottle, or…..my Yoda kaleidoscope.

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It seems I use Yoda more than anything else when I’m making pom poms. It’s the perfect size, really. I wrap my yarn around it, then I pull it off of the kaleidoscope.

I put a piece of yarn underneath it and tie it tight around the middle.

Then I cut each side. Making sure not to cut the piece that I tied around it, I then fluff and trim the pom pom until it looks the way I want it to.

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I use that long piece to attach it to hats.

There are lots of other ways you can make pom poms, and most of them don’t require you to purchase anything. This video on youtube shows 4 different ways of making pom poms, and you can do all 4 with items you have around your house.

Do you have a project that requires a lot of pom poms? There are a few different, inventive, ways to make pom poms in bulk, but I think my favorite is using a chair. This video gives a quick tutorial on how to do it, but I’m actually planning on having my boyfriend make me a tool to do this using wooden dowels and a 2×4. It would be much easier for me, and he likes to build me things.

If you want to make a lot of small pom poms, this video shows how to do it using a loom. I never would have thought to do this, but I have a few looms here (that I’ve never actually used) so I might have to give this one a try.

The great thing about pom poms is that it’s a creative way to use up those scraps of yarn you have laying around. You can wrap different colors in one pom pom to make rainbow ones, or to create a theme. Grab that extra yarn, make a bunch of pom poms, and throw them in a bin. Then next time you have an idea for a pom pom project, you already have them made and ready to go.

Now that you know how to make pom poms, let’s look at some neat ideas for things you can do with them.

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The first thing I think of when I start talking about pom poms is making a pom pom rug. Me and my daughter had plans to each make one of these years ago. We bought the supplies, but then never got around to doing it. One of these days I swear I will. Go check out the instructions, including a video, for the one above on this site. And if you make one before I do, make sure you show me a picture. There are so many different types of rugs you can make.

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This website shows how they made this adorable cloud pom pom rug. I love the idea of making shaped rugs using pom poms. You could cut your base into any shape really, but I think a heart would be really cute. Imagine sitting in a nice, comfy chair with some yarn in your lap, a hook in your hand, and your toes sunk into a fluffy pom pom rug. Seriously, I will make one of these eventually to go in front of my chair.

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Pom pom wreaths are also very popular, and I love the way they look. This one from Joann’s uses a foam wreath form and hot glue, and I love the random fur pom poms that they threw in there. Now imagine this in pastels for a nice, spring wreath. You could also buy the wire wreath forms and tie the pom poms on instead of hot gluing them.

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How about a pom pom pillow? This tutorial uses a simple pillow case and hot glue. I think something like this would look cute in a nursery.

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Pom pom garland is pretty easy to make, and would look great hung around the house at Christmas time. Don’t limit yourself, though. Make some in other colors and hang it around as everyday decor. This site shows a few different ways of making pom poms, but they also show how to turn them into pretty garland.

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Imagine how cute it would be to create your child’s name using wooden letters and pom poms. I found this idea on this site, and I really love it. I might have to incorporate this into the decor in my craft space when I finally get it decorated.

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Ok, ok, I know that Christmas is over, but I feel like this tree could be used as decor all year long, depending on the colors you use. I love the bells they added in there, and the star at the top is cute. If you leave the star off, or put something else on top (a bird, maybe?) then it would make a nice spring decoration. Go check out this site to see how they did it.

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Speaking of pom poms as everyday decor, check out how simple and elegant they look just glued to some sticks and put in a nice vase. I found this idea on this site, and I really love it. It would be a fun thing to make with the kids because you could go for a hike first to find the branches you want to use, then come home and make some pom poms and glue them on.

There are a lot of other things you could make with pom poms with your kids. These fluffy snowmen would be fun, or some little chicks to set around the house at Easter time. Or how about some Sesame Street characters? You could even add a keychain or zipper pull to the string that you use to tie the pom pom.

If you want some other ideas for things to do with pom poms, Adventures in Pompom Land and Pompom Crafts are 2 great books for under $10 each that you can purchase over on Amazon.

I hope you enjoyed this post! I really had to force myself to get off of Pinterest. There are so many neat ideas for things to do with pom poms, and I think I could have kept on browsing all day. Do you have any things you’ve made with pom poms? Have you seen some cool ideas that you want to try. Head on over to my Facebook page and tell me about it, or post a picture or link. I’m going to have a tub full of pom poms here soon that I’ll need ideas for.

 

Crochet Cactus Pillow

My 13-year-old daughter is obsessed with cacti. She wants to buy every cactus she sees, and she wants everything she sees with a cactus print on it. For Christmas, I decided I wanted to make her a cactus pillow.

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I found an adorable cactus-shaped pillow pattern created by Whistle and Ivy for Darice. She designed it using chunky yarn, but I wanted to use the same yarn for both of the pillows, so my shaped one is smaller than hers, but perfect size to go with the graph pillow that I designed.

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I wanted a big enough pillow for her to use on her bed, and this whole set was perfect for her. She has anxiety problems, especially when she’s not at home, so when she went and stayed at her friend’s house last week the little shaped pillow was perfect size for her to tuck in her backpack. She said the little hairs on it helped her anxiety because tightening them helped with her need to fidget. So, two birds, one stone.

Want to make your own cactus graph pillow? Here’s what I used for mine.

Materials needed (with affiliate links):

18 x 18 inch pillow form

Loops and Threads Impeccable yarn in soft rose, fern, deep forest and soft fern.

J (6mm) crochet hook

For the back of the pillow, I wanted stripes. I really loved the way the pink and the greens looked together. My daughter actually saw me working on the back and said it reminded her of a watermelon. She had no idea I was working on something for her.

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I did the back of it first, in order to figure out how big it needed to be so I could create the graph for the front.

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I tend to crochet rather tight stitches. I used a J hook, but if you crochet loose stitches you may need to use an I hook to get the right gauge.

Gauge: 7 (hdc) stitches and 5 rows = 2 inches square

I did 60 hdc’s across, and did 52 rows to get it the size I needed to cover the pillow. The pattern I used was 4 rows of soft rose, 2 rows of deep forest, 4 rows of fern, 2 rows of soft fern, then repeated it ending with 4 rows of soft rose. You can do this pillow in any colors that you choose, and do whatever pattern you want on the back, as long as you do 60 hdc’s across and 52 rows, and make sure your gauge is the same as mine by adjusting the hook size you’re using.

This is the graph I created for the front of the pillow:

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I really liked the way the pink looked with the green, and I liked the bright colors. But you could do this in any colors you want. I think it would look great in more muted colors.

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Once I finished both sides, I did a sc around both to sew them together and inserted the pillow form before I closed up the top. Then I added fringe around the outside, and added some little “thorns” to the cactus.

I hope you liked my cactus pillow. If you use this graph to make any cactus pillows of your own, be sure to share a photo with me on Facebook.

December Favorite Finds

A new year is coming. With that in mind, one of my biggest resolutions every year is to get organized. Sometimes I manage to do it, or at least to get one room in my house organized. But it seems like the most unorganized area of my house is always my crafts.

So for December, I decided to put together some links to help you organize your craft room/space. It was fun imagining that I actually have a craft room again, instead of having everything crammed into my small bedroom. One day, maybe, my dreams of a craft room will come true. In the meantime, I got to spend some time dreaming about how I would organize that space. Maybe you have a craft room that needs organizing. Maybe you’re like me and you just have crafts supplies shoved wherever you can fit them. In any case, these things will help you to get them organized a little better, which will make it easier to get done all of the things you want to do.

Let’s start with the big stuff. Let’s organize all of your yarn.

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I personally have 4 of these 6-cube cubbies, and I have one of the 9-cube cubbies. These are perfect for yarn storage, and they look so pretty full of skeins of yarn in all the colors of the rainbow. Confession: All 33 cubes of mine are pretty much full of yarn. Plus I have way too many tubs full of yarn to even count, mostly because they’re hidden in different spots throughout my house.

Maybe you don’t like the idea of your yarn being so visible?

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I have numerous storage bins like these in my cubbies. I even have them in this color, although they’re available in lots of other colors too. Mix and match colors to create a theme in your room if you’d like. I use the bins to put partial skeins in because they’re not as pretty as unused ones in the cubbies.

Here’s another option if you don’t like your yarn to be so visible, or you want to protect it more from dust.

I haven’t personally purchased these, but I have a friend who has them and loves them. From what I’ve seen you can attach them in different ways to make them work better for the space you have. They’re also really affordable compared to some of the wood cubbies. You can get this 9-cube cubby, or get the 12-cube one if you need more storage space.

Maybe you don’t have enough room to put a cubby in your house. Here’s another option for your yarn storage.

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As you can see this organizer hangs in a closet, and has plenty of room to store skeins of yarn. It even has pockets on the sides to hold magazines, pattern books or hooks.

If your yarn stash isn’t that big, and you usually only buy what you’ll need for specific projects…..well, then I can’t relate to you at all. However, here’s some great ideas to store yarn for a project that you’re currently working on.

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This yarn storage bag is one of my favorite things that I’ve ever purchased. It has so many pockets and places to hold all of your crochet hooks, plus plenty of space to hold multiple skeins of yarn. It even has holes in the top for the yarn to feed through so you don’t have to pull the skeins out while you work, and room behind the yarn to store your project when you’re not working on it.

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This yarn caddy would look nice next to a comfy chair or couch, and would be great for keeping all of your project stuff close by. This is next on my “to buy” list for sure.

Now that your yarn is taken care of, let’s look at some other things to help organize your crafts.

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I like to keep felt handy for sewing or gluing to certain projects. Felt is so cheap to buy, and it’s nice to have it on hand when you need it. This rolling cart is perfect for storing all of your felt. It would also work for storing other things, like tape measures, crochet hooks, needles, embroidery thread, or any other supplies you like to have nearby when you crochet. I love how colorful it is, but you can also get it in black or white if you don’t like the colors.

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The other things I use a lot are safety eyes and noses. This craft cabinet is something you normally see used to store nails and screws, but it would be perfect for storing safety eyes or buttons in. And it will sit right on top of one of your yarn cubbies too, making them easily accessible when you need them.

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I buy buttons a lot too, and like to have lots of choices when I’m working on projects. These plastic bottles would look so pretty filled with colorful buttons and sitting on top of one of your yarn cubbies.

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These reusable chalk labels would be great for the craft cabinet or for the plastic bottles, so you can easily see what’s inside.

I have a lot of crochet hooks and scissors. Sometimes I think I’ve started collecting scissors, actually, since I have so many pairs in so many different sizes. I found two neat options for holding all of this stuff and keeping it within my reach. This storage caddy is so bright and cheerful, and the separate containers can be removed to make everything more accessible. Don’t like the bright colors? Then check out this fabric caddy that is big enough to hold all of your essential tools.

If you’re like me, you’ve got a library of patterns that you plan to get to eventually. As important as it is to organize your craft space, it’s also important to organize your time.

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Print out all of your patterns and store them in a binder. You can even separate them into different pattern types, and get a second binder to move the pattern to after you’ve finished it, especially if you plan to make more of that item in the future. This binder comes in different colors and different sizes, so you can customize them to work in your space.

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This is one of my favorite things that I found. These dry erase pockets are perfect to hold the pattern that you’re currently working on. Just slip the paper inside, then use a dry erase marker to cross off each row as you finish it, without messing up the pattern.

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This organizer has 8 compartments you can use to hold your printed patterns, magazines, or binders. It would also sit nicely on top of one of your yarn cubbies, and I love the pattern on it. It’s also available in solid black, though, if the pattern isn’t your thing.

 

I like to buy crochet magazines. It’s hard for me to get out of Joann’s or Michaels without picking one up, because there are so many different patterns in each of them. These magazine holders come in different colors to brighten up your craft space. If the bright colors aren’t your thing, you can also get these pastel ones that have a floral print on them. Either one of them would look great on top of your yarn cubbies, and will help you organize all of those magazines (or maybe even some crochet books) that you have lying around.51hmSd+xPlL._SL1500_

Another great tool to help you organize your time is a dry erase board. You can write your to-do list on it each day so it’s easily visible. This one is also magnetic so you can pin up some notes or a pattern if you want to.

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I really like this dry erase/corkboard too, because I like the space to pin up other motivating things to keep me going. I have a dry erase board on my bedroom door that I use to keep track of things that need to get done, but I might have to replace it with one of these eventually.

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And don’t forget to pick up some extra dry erase markers! This set also comes with an eraser, and cleaner to keep your board white.

Ok, I really had to force myself to stop looking at craft room ideas, because once I get going it’s hard to stop. I like to dream of the space I’d create if I just had the room, but it’s also fun to figure out ways to make things work in the space that I have. I got a few new ideas from this post that I’ll be buying soon, and I think it’s helped motivate me to get more organized for the new year.

Hope you found some useful products here! If you purchase any of them, go leave me a comment on Facebook and tell me what you think of them.

 

Gingerbread Draft Stopper and Shelf Sitter

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Winter is here and so is the cold. Do you have cold air that leaks under your door? We certainly do, so I decided I needed to create some draft stoppers. These gingerbread people are cute and functional. Just push them up against your door and their legs will stop that cold air from coming in.

I loved them so much, I wanted to create matching ones that I could put on a shelf in my living room. So I created one pattern, with different legs, that can be used to make the matching set.

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If you want a pattern that you can save on your computer and easily print, this pattern is available in my Ravelry shop for only $3.00. Or you can get my whole Christmas 2017 Collection for only $8.00. I love printing patterns and saving them in a binder to keep track of the ones I’ve done and the ones I still plan to do.

These patterns work best if you put a bit of weight in their bottoms. It will help them to sit up and stay put. I used polly pellets and some cheap nylons, and the weight on them ended up perfect.

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

sl st: slip stitch

inc: increase (2 single crochets in one loop)

dec: decrease (pull yarn through loop, pull yarn through second loop, yarn over and pull through all loops)

hdc: half double crochet

fphdc: front post half double crochet

bphdc: back post half double crochet

Materials needed (with affiliate links):

Loops and Threads Impeccable yarn in soft taupe and white. Soft rose for the cheeks, red hot and fern for the buttons and bows.

I (5.25mm) crochet hook

18mm safety eyes

Yarn needle

Poly-fil 

Polly pellets

Nylons

Making the weighted pouch

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I got the nylon stockings so they were already 2 individual pieces. By cutting them in half, I was able to make 4 bodies using 1 set of nylons.

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With the toe part, you just fill it and tie the end. With the other half, tie a knot at one end first. Fill each of them with 1/2-3/4 cup of polly pellets. Tie a knot in the top to close it.

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This extra bit of weight really does help them to sit up without making them too heavy. You can get quite a few of these made using 1 bag of polly pellets. I believe I made 7 or 8 of them with 1 bag.

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This pattern is worked “in-the-round”, and stitches are worked through both loops unless otherwise noted. 

Head:

With soft taupe, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 8: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 9: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (50 stitches)

Switch to white.

Rows 10-11: Sc in each stitch around. (50 stitches)

Switch to soft taupe.

Rows 12-17: Sc in each stitch around. (50 stitches)

Row 18: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 19: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 20: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 21: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 22: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 23: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff with poly-fil. Position eyes onto head. Be sure you have them where you want them before putting the back on, because once it’s on they can’t be moved.

Body:

With soft taupe, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 8: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 9: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (50 stitches)

Row 10: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 11 (for girl): In front loops only, sc in each stitch around. (45 stitches)

Row 11 (for boy): Sc in each stitch around. (45 stitches)

Row 12: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 13: Sc in each stitch around. (40 stitches)

Row 14: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 15: Sc in each stitch around. (35 stitches)

Row 16: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Rows 17-18: Sc in each stitch around. (30 stitches)

Row 19: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Rows 20-21: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Row 22: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Rows 23-24: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Tie off. Insert polly pellet weight. Stuff the rest of the way with poly-fil. Sew head onto body.

Skirt (for girl):

By crocheting in the front loops only on row 9 of the body, you should have created a line around it.

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With soft taupe, sl st and attach into this line.

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Ch 1 and sc in each stitch around.

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Switch to white. Work 3 sc’s in each stitch around.

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Tie off.

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Cheeks and Buttons:

Using soft rose, fern or red hot (depending on what you’re making), ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Sl st to first sc. Tie off.

You can sew the cheeks and buttons on if you want, but I used hot glue.

Bow:

With red hot, ch. 5.

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn. (4 stitches)

Rows 2-8: Sc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn. (4 stitches)

Tie off. Wrap yarn tight around the center and tie in the back. You can sew the bow on if you want, but I used hot glue.

Arms:

With soft taupe, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Switch to white.

Rows 7-8: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Switch to soft taupe.

Row 9: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Rows 10-12: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Row 13: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Rows 14-21: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff halfway with poly-fil. Sew onto body.

Legs (for shelf sitter):

With soft taupe, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Rows 7-8: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Row 9: Sc in first 7 stitches, dec in next 10 stitches (5 dec’s), sc in next 8 stitches. (20 stitches)

Row 10: Sc in first 5 stitches, dec in next 10 stitches (5 dec’s), sc in next 5 stitches. (15 stitches)

Rows 11-12: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Switch to white.

Rows 13-14: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Switch to soft taupe.

Rows 15-16: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Stuff the foot with poly-fil.

Rows 17-41: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff to just above the boot, leaving the rest of the leg unstuffed. Sew onto bottom of body.

Legs (for draft stopper):

With soft taupe, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 8: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Rows 9-11: Sc in each stitch around. (35 stitches)

Row 12: Sc in first 13 stitches, dec in next 10 stitches (5 dec’s), sc in next 12 stitches. (30 stitches)

Row 13: Sc in first 10 stitches, dec in next 10 stitches (5 dec’s), sc in next 10 stitches. (25 stitches)

Rows 14-16: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Switch to white.

Rows 17-18: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Switch to soft taupe.

Row 19: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Stuff the foot with poly-fil. Be sure to stuff it tight. You want the feet and legs to be really firm.

Rows 20-81: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Every 10 rows or so, stuff more poly-fil into the leg, remembering to keep it stuffed firm. Leave the last 10-12 rows unstuffed.

Tie off. Sew onto bottom of body. Be sure to sew them sideways, so they go to the side of the body, and keep them both close to the middle.

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I hope you enjoy this pattern! You’re welcome to sell items that you make using my patterns, as long as you don’t post the pattern anywhere else, and link back to my page if you’d like to. If there are any mistakes, or something is unclear, please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know. Or message me on Facebook. If you create any gingerbread people of your own, be sure to post a photo on my Facebook page so I can see. I love seeing all of the things people are creating.

Elf Draft Stopper and Shelf Sitter

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Winter is here and so is the cold. Do you have cold air that leaks under your door? We certainly do, so I decided I needed to create some draft stoppers. This elf is cute and functional. Just push him up against your door and his legs will stop that cold air from coming in.

I loved him so much, I wanted to create a matching one that I could put on a shelf in my living room. So I created one pattern, with different legs, that can be used to make the matching set.

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If you want a pattern that you can save on your computer and easily print, this pattern is available in my Ravelry shop for only $3.00. Or you can get my whole Christmas 2017 Collection for only $8.00. I love printing patterns and saving them in a binder to keep track of the ones I’ve done and the ones I still plan to do.

These patterns work best if you put a bit of weight in their bottoms. It will help them to sit up and stay put. I used polly pellets and some cheap nylons, and the weight on them ended up perfect.

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

sl st: slip stitch

inc: increase (2 single crochets in one loop)

dec: decrease (pull yarn through loop, pull yarn through second loop, yarn over and pull through all loops)

hdc: half double crochet

fphdc: front post half double crochet

bphdc: back post half double crochet

Materials needed (with affiliate links):

Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice yarn in white, beige, scarlet and kelly green.

I (5.25mm) crochet hook

18mm safety eyes

Yarn needle

Poly-fil 

Bell for the end of the hat (You can do a pom-pom instead if you want)

Polly pellets

Nylons

Making the weighted pouch

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I got the nylon stockings so they were already 2 individual pieces. By cutting them in half, I was able to make 4 bodies using 1 set of nylons.

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With the toe part, you just fill it and tie the end. With the other half, tie a knot at one end first. Fill each of them with 1/2-3/4 cup of polly pellets. Tie a knot in the top to close it.

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This extra bit of weight really does help them to sit up without making them too heavy. You can get quite a few of these made using 1 bag of polly pellets. I believe I made 7 or 8 of them with 1 bag.

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This pattern is worked “in-the-round”, and stitches are worked through both loops unless otherwise noted. 

Head:

With beige, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 8: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 9: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (50 stitches)

Rows 10-17: Sc in each stitch around. (50 stitches)

Row 18: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 19: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 20: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 21: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 22: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 23: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff with poly-fil.

Hat:

With scarlet, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 4 sc inside of circle. (4 stitches)

Row 2: Sc in each stitch around. (4 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (6 stitches)

Row 4: Sc in each stitch around. (6 stitches)

Switch to white.

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (8 stitches)

Row 6: Sc in each stitch around. (8 stitches)

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (10 stitches)

Row 8: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Switch to scarlet.

Row 9: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (12 stitches)

Row 10: Sc in each stitch around. (12 stitches)

Row 11: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (14 stitches)

Row 12: Sc in each stitch around. (14 stitches)

Switch to white.

Row 13: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (16 stitches)

Row 14: Sc in each stitch around. (16 stitches)

Row 15: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (18 stitches)

Row 16: Sc in each stitch around. (18 stitches)

Switch to scarlet.

Row 17: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 18: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Row 19: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 20: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Switch to white.

Row 21: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 22: Sc in each stitch around. (30 stitches)

Row 23: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 24: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Switch to scarlet.

Row 25: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 26: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (50 stitches)

Rows 27-28: Sc in each stitch around. (50 stitches)

Switch to white.

Rows 29-32: Sc in each stitch around. (50 stitches)

Switch to scarlet.

Rows 33-36: Sc in each stitch around. (50 stitches)

Switch to kelly green.

Row 37: Working in back loops only, sc in each stitch around. (50 stitches)

Rows 38-39: Sc in each stitch around. (50 stitches)

Row 40: Sc in first stitch, *in next stitch sc, ch 4, sc, sc in next stitch. Continue from * around.

Tie off. Attach bell or pom pom to top. Stuff the top of the hat with poly-fil so that it will stand up straight.

Decide where you want to place the eyes, but don’t put the backs on them yet. Once the backs are on, you can’t move them. Put the hat on and get it positioned where you want it. Sew the hat onto the head.

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Once the hat is in place, flip the kelly green part up. Adjust the eyes if you need to and place the backs on.

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You can add a nose and a mouth if you want, but I like them with just the eyes. If you’re making a girl, you can also add eyelashes but be sure to do them before you put the safety eyes on so they’ll extend underneath the eyes. You can also use blush to add color to his cheeks.

IMG_2590

Body:

With kelly green, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 8: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 9: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (50 stitches)

Row 10: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 11: Sc in each stitch around. (45 stitches)

Row 12: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 13: Sc in each stitch around. (40 stitches)

Row 14: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 15: Sc in each stitch around. (35 stitches)

Row 16: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Rows 17-18: Sc in each stitch around. (30 stitches)

Row 19: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Rows 20-21: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Row 22: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Switch to beige.

Rows 23-24: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Tie off. Insert polly pellet weight. Stuff the rest of the way with poly-fil. Sew head onto body.

Arms:

With beige, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 7: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Switch to kelly green.

Row 8: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Row 9: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Switch to white.

Rows 10-11: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Switch to scarlet.

Row 12: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Row 13: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Rows 14-15: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Switch to white.

Rows 16-19: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Switch to scarlet.

Rows 20-21: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff halfway with poly-fil.

If you want, you can attach kelly green with a sl st around the last kelly green post.

IMG_2399

Sc around twice to create a “sleeve” on his arm.

IMG_2401

Sew arms onto body.

Legs (for shelf sitter):

With kelly green, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Rows 7-8: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Row 9: Sc in first 7 stitches, dec in next 10 stitches (5 dec’s), sc in next 8 stitches. (20 stitches)

Row 10: Sc in first 5 stitches, dec in next 10 stitches (5 dec’s), sc in next 5 stitches. (15 stitches)

Rows 11-15: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Switch to white.

Row 16: Working in front post only, sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

IMG_2344

Stuff the foot with poly-fil.

Rows 17-19: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Switch to scarlet.

Rows 20-23: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Switch to white.

Rows 24-27: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Switch to scarlet.

Rows 28-31: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Switch to white.

Rows 32-35: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Switch to scarlet.

Rows 36-39: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff to just above the boot, leaving the rest of the leg unstuffed.

Working in the front posts of row 16 should have left you a line in the boot like this.

IMG_2352

If you want, you can leave it like that. Or, you can sl st with kelly green into the boot.

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Work a sc into each stitch around.

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In 2nd row, sc in first stitch, *work sc, ch 4, sc in next stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. Tie off.

Sew onto bottom of body.

IMG_2591

Legs (for draft stopper):

With kelly green, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 8: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Rows 9-11: Sc in each stitch around. (35 stitches)

Row 12: Sc in first 13 stitches, dec in next 10 stitches (5 dec’s), sc in next 12 stitches. (30 stitches)

Row 13: Sc in first 10 stitches, dec in next 10 stitches (5 dec’s), sc in next 10 stitches. (25 stitches)

Rows 14-21: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Switch to white.

Row 22: Working in front post only, sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

IMG_2344

Row 23: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Stuff the foot with poly-fil. Be sure to stuff it tight. You want the feet and legs to be really firm.

Switch to scarlet.

Rows 24-27: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Switch to white.

Rows 28-31: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Switch to scarlet.

Rows 32-35: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Every 10 rows or so, stuff more poly-fil into the leg, remembering to keep it stuffed firm. Leave the last 10-12 rows unstuffed.

Switch to white.

Rows 36-39: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Switch to scarlet.

Rows 40-43: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Switch to white.

Rows 44-47: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Switch to scarlet.

Rows 48-51: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Switch to white.

Rows 52-55: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Switch to scarlet.

Rows 56-59: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Switch to white.

Rows 60-63: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Switch to scarlet.

Rows 64-67: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Switch to white.

Rows 68-71: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Switch to scarlet.

Rows 62-75: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Switch to white.

Rows 76-79: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Switch to scarlet.

Rows 80-81: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Tie off.

Working in the front posts of row 22 should have left you a line in the boot like this.

IMG_2352

If you want, you can leave it like that. Or, you can sl st with kelly green into the boot.

IMG_2346

Work a sc into each stitch around.

IMG_2349

In 2nd row, sc in first stitch, *work sc, ch 4, sc in next stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. Tie off.

Sew onto bottom of body. Be sure to sew them sideways, so they go to the side of the body, and keep them both close to the middle.

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I hope you enjoy this pattern! You’re welcome to sell items that you make using my patterns, as long as you don’t post the pattern anywhere else, and link back to my page if you’d like to. If there are any mistakes, or something is unclear, please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know. Or message me on Facebook. If you create any elves of your own, be sure to post a photo on my Facebook page so I can see. I love seeing all of the things people are creating.

Snowman Draft Stopper and Shelf Sitter

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Winter is here and so is the cold. Do you have cold air that leaks under your door? We certainly do, so I decided I needed to create some draft stoppers. This snowman is cute and functional. Just push him up against your door and his legs will stop that cold air from coming in.

I loved him so much, I wanted to create a matching one that I could put on a shelf in my living room. So I created one pattern, with different legs, that can be used to make the matching set.

IMG_2455

If you want a pattern that you can save on your computer and easily print, this pattern is available in my Ravelry shop for only $3.00. Or you can get my whole Christmas 2017 Collection for only $8.00. I love printing patterns and saving them in a binder to keep track of the ones I’ve done and the ones I still plan to do.

These patterns work best if you put a bit of weight in their bottoms. It will help them to sit up and stay put. I used polly pellets and some cheap nylons, and the weight on them ended up perfect.

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

sl st: slip stitch

inc: increase (2 single crochets in one loop)

dec: decrease (pull yarn through loop, pull yarn through second loop, yarn over and pull through all loops)

hdc: half double crochet

fphdc: front post half double crochet

bphdc: back post half double crochet

Materials needed (with affiliate links):

Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice yarn in white, black, rust, silver blue and dusty blue.

I (5.25mm) crochet hook

18mm safety eyes

Yarn needle

Poly-fil 

3 black buttons

Polly pellets

Nylons

Making the weighted pouch

IMG_2333

I got the nylon stockings so they were already 2 individual pieces. By cutting them in half, I was able to make 4 bodies using 1 set of nylons.

IMG_2335

With the toe part, you just fill it and tie the end. With the other half, tie a knot at one end first. Fill each of them with 1/2-3/4 cup of polly pellets. Tie a knot in the top to close it.

IMG_2337

This extra bit of weight really does help them to sit up without making them too heavy. You can get quite a few of these made using 1 bag of polly pellets. I believe I made 7 or 8 of them with 1 bag.

IMG_2339

This pattern is worked “in-the-round”, and stitches are worked through both loops unless otherwise noted. 

Head:

With white, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 8: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 9: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (50 stitches)

Rows 10-17: Sc in each stitch around. (50 stitches)

Row 18: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 19: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 20: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 21: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 22: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 23: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff with poly-fil.

 

Hat:

With silver blue, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 4 sc inside of circle. (4 stitches)

Rows 2-3: Sc in each stitch around. (4 stitches)

Switch to dusty blue.

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (6 stitches)

Rows 5-6: Sc in each stitch around. (6 stitches)

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (8 stitches)

Switch to silver blue.

Rows 8-9: Sc in each stitch around. (8 stitches)

Row 10: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (10 stitches)

Row 11: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Switch to dusty blue.

Row 12: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Row 13: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (12 stitches)

Rows 14-15: Sc in each stitch around. (12 stitches)

Switch to silver blue.

Row 16: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (14 stitches)

Rows 17-18: Sc in each stitch around. (14 stitches)

Row 19: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (16 stitches)

Switch to dusty blue.

Rows 20-21: Sc in each stitch around. (16 stitches)

Row 22: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (18 stitches)

Row 23: Sc in each stitch around. (18 stitches)

Switch to silver blue.

Row 24: Sc in each stitch around. (18 stitches)

Row 25: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Rows 26-27: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Switch to dusty blue.

Row 28: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Rows 29-30: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Row 31: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Switch to silver blue.

Rows 32-33: Sc in each stitch around. (30 stitches)

Row 34: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 35: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Switch to dusty blue.

Row 36: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 37: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (50 stitches)

Rows 38-39: Sc in each stitch around. (50 stitches)

Switch to silver blue.

Rows 40-43: Sc in each stitch around. (50 stitches)

Switch to dusty blue.

Rows 44-47: Sc in each stitch around. (50 stitches)

Row 48: Working in back loops only, hdc in each stitch around. (50 stitches)

Rows 49-51: Alternate fphdc and bphdc around. (50 stitches)

For front post half double crochet (fphdc), instead of working through the loop, you’ll go through the post in the front.

IMG_2409

For back post half double crochet (bphdc), you’ll go through the post in the back.

IMG_2410

This creates a ribbing on the end of the hat.

IMG_2413

If you have a hard time with the front post and back post stitches, you can always just do half double crochets instead.

Tie off. Attach pom pom to top.

IMG_2416

Decide where you want to place the eyes, but don’t put the backs on them yet. Once the backs are on, you can’t move them. Put the hat on and get it positioned where you want it. Sew the hat onto the head.

IMG_2422

Once the hat is in place, flip the ribbed part up. Adjust the eyes if you need to and place the backs on.

IMG_2418

Use a bit of yarn to attach the hat to the side.

IMG_2424

Nose:

With rust, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 4 sc inside of circle. (4 stitches)

Row 2: Sc in each stitch around. (4 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (6 stitches)

Row 4: Sc in each stitch around. (6 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff with poly-fil. Position on face and sew on.

Body:

With white, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 8: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 9: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (50 stitches)

Row 10: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 11: Sc in each stitch around. (45 stitches)

Row 12: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 13: Sc in each stitch around. (40 stitches)

Row 14: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 15: Sc in each stitch around. (35 stitches)

Row 16: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Rows 17-18: Sc in each stitch around. (30 stitches)

Row 19: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Rows 20-21: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Row 22: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Rows 23-24: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Tie off. Insert polly pellet weight. Stuff the rest of the way with poly-fil. Attach black buttons. Sew head onto body.

Arms:

With dusty blue, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Rows 7-8: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Row 9: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Switch to white.

Row 10: Working in front post only, sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

IMG_2375

Rows 11-12: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Row 13: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Rows 14-21: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff halfway with poly-fil.

By working in the front posts of row 10, you should have created a line line this.

IMG_2379

You can leave it like that if you want, or you can sl st into the post and work a hdc around.

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IMG_2395

This just makes the gloves stand out a bit more, and makes them look more like they’re separate from the arm.

IMG_2465

Sew arms onto body.

Scarf:

With silver blue, ch 7.

Row 1: Hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn. (6 stitches)

Rows 2-60: Hdc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn. (6 stitches)

Tie off. Attach fringe. Tie around neck.

Legs (for shelf sitter):

With black, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Rows 7-8: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Row 9: Sc in first 7 stitches, dec in next 10 stitches (5 dec’s), sc in next 8 stitches. (20 stitches)

Row 10: Sc in first 5 stitches, dec in next 10 stitches (5 dec’s), sc in next 5 stitches. (15 stitches)

Rows 11-15: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Switch to white.

Row 16: Working in front post only, sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Stuff the foot with poly-fil.

Rows 17-41: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff to just above the boot, leaving the rest of the leg unstuffed. Sew onto bottom of body.

IMG_2458

Legs (for draft stopper):

With black, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 8: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Rows 9-11: Sc in each stitch around. (35 stitches)

Row 12: Sc in first 13 stitches, dec in next 10 stitches (5 dec’s), sc in next 12 stitches. (30 stitches)

Row 13: Sc in first 10 stitches, dec in next 10 stitches (5 dec’s), sc in next 10 stitches. (25 stitches)

Rows 14-21: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Switch to white.

Row 22: Working in front post only, sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Row 23: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Stuff the foot with poly-fil. Be sure to stuff it tight. You want the feet and legs to be really firm.

Rows 24-81: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Every 10 rows or so, stuff more poly-fil into the leg, remembering to keep it stuffed firm. Leave the last 10-12 rows unstuffed.

Tie off. Sew onto bottom of body. Be sure to sew them sideways, so they go to the side of the body, and keep them both close to the middle.

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You can also leave the legs off of the snowman if you want.

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If you leave the legs off and stuff the body with poly-fil without the weighted polly pellets, it will make a great toy for a child too.

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I hope you enjoy this pattern! You’re welcome to sell items that you make using my patterns, as long as you don’t post the pattern anywhere else, and link back to my page if you’d like to. If there are any mistakes, or something is unclear, please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know. Or message me on Facebook. If you create any snowmen of your own, be sure to post a photo on my Facebook page so I can see. I love seeing all of the things people are creating.

Gingerbread Cuddle Buddy

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I’m really not a fan of gingerbread cookies, but I do love gingerbread men as decorations. I decided to make these cute gingerbread cuddle buddies for the babies to play with this year.

If you want a pattern that you can save on your computer and easily print, this pattern is available in my Ravelry shop for only $2.00. Or you can get my whole Christmas 2017 Collection for only $8.00. I love printing patterns and saving them in a binder to keep track of the ones I’ve done and the ones I still plan to do.

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

sl st: slip stitch

inc: increase (2 single crochets in one loop)

dec: decrease (pull yarn through loop, pull yarn through second loop, yarn over and pull through all loops)

Materials needed (with affiliate links):

Loops and Threads Impeccable yarn in soft taupe and white. Soft rose for the cheeks, red hot and fern for the buttons.

I (5.25mm) crochet hook

18mm safety eyes

Yarn needle

Poly-fil 

This pattern is worked “in-the-round”, and stitches are worked through both loops unless otherwise noted. 

Head:

With soft taupe, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 8: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 9: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (50 stitches)

Switch to white.

Rows 10-11: Sc in each stitch around. (50 stitches)

Switch to soft taupe.

Rows 12-17: Sc in each stitch around. (50 stitches)

Row 18: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 19: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 20: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 21: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 22: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 23: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff with poly-fil. Position eyes onto head. Be sure you have them where you want them before putting the back on, because once it’s on they can’t be moved.

Body:

With soft taupe, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 8: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 9 (for girl): In front loops only, sc in each stitch around. (35 stitches)

Row 9 (for boy): Sc in each stitch around. (35 stitches)

Rows 10-11: Sc in each stitch around. (35 stitches)

Row 12: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Rows 13-14: Sc in each stitch around. (30 stitches)

Row 15: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Rows 16-17: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Row 18: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Rows 19-20: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff with poly-fil.

Skirt (for girl):

By crocheting in the front loops only on row 9 of the body, you should have created a line around it.

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With soft taupe, sl st and attach into this line.

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Ch 1 and sc in each stitch around.

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Switch to white. Work 3 sc’s in each stitch around.

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Tie off.

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Legs:

With soft taupe, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Switch to white.

Rows 7-8: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Switch to soft taupe.

Row 9: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Rows 10-12: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Row 13: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Rows 14-20: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Row 21: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (10 stitches)

Row 22: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff with poly-fil, leaving last couple of rows unstuffed.

Arms:

With soft taupe, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Switch to white.

Rows 6-7: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Switch to soft taupe.

Row 8: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Rows 9-13: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Row 14: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next stitch, repeat from * around. (10 stitches)

Rows 15-20: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff halfway with poly-fil.

Cheeks and Buttons:

Using soft rose, fern or red hot (depending on what you’re making), ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Sl st to first sc. Tie off.

You can sew the cheeks and buttons on if you want, but I used a bit of hot glue to put them on. Sew head onto body. Sew arms and legs on.

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I hope you enjoy this pattern! You’re welcome to sell items that you make using my patterns, as long as you don’t post the pattern anywhere else, and link back to my page if you’d like to. If there are any mistakes, or something is unclear, please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know. Or message me on Facebook. If you create any gingerbread people of your own, be sure to post a photo on my Facebook page so I can see. I love seeing all of the things people are creating.