If you haven’t made Gunther yet, click on his name there and you’ll find the pattern for him. This post has the patterns for his accessories, although I didn’t get pictures while I was making them, so hopefully nobody will have problems following the patterns.

I was going to split this up into 2 or 3 posts, and post them throughout this week, but it’s been pretty hectic around here. I decided it would be easier to just sit here this evening and type up each of the patterns at once. If you like Gunther, and his awesome accessories, go check out Camp Happy Heart Fibre Arts on Facebook. She’s the one who came up with him and knitted him. This is my crocheted version.

Unicorn Hat

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

inc: increase (2 single crochets in one loop)

dec: decrease (pull yarn through loop, pull yarn through second loop, yarn over and pull through all loops)

Materials needed (with affiliate links):

J (5.75mm) crochet hook

H (5mm) crochet hook

F (3.75mm) crochet hook

Lion’s Brand Vanna yarn in white. Caron Simply Soft in multiple colors for the rainbow, and yellow for the horn.

Yarn needle

This pattern is worked “in-the-round”, and stitches are worked through both loops unless otherwise noted. 

Hat

With white and using J crochet hook, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 8: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Rows 9-12: Sc in each stitch around. (45 stitches)

Row 13: Sc in next 32 stitches, leaving last 13 stitches unworked. Ch 1, turn. (32 stitches)

Rows 14-20: Sc across, ch 1, turn. (32 stitches)

Row 21: Sc across, ch 15, sl st to first sc.

Row 22: Sc in each stitch around, working 15 sc’s into ch 15 space. (47 stitches)

Row 23: Continuing working in the round, sc in each stitch around. (47 stitches)

Tie off.

Ears

With white and using H crochet hook, ch. 7

Rows 1-3: Sc in second ch from hook and in each stitch across, ch 1, turn. (6 stitches)

Row 4: Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, dec in last 2 stitches, ch 1, turn. (4 stitches)

Row 5: Sc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn. (4 stitches)

Row 6: Dec in first 2 stitches, dec in last 2 stitches, ch 1, turn. (2 stitches)

Row 7: Sc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn. (2 stitches)

Row 8: Dec. (1 stitch)

Tie off.

Make two of these, but with the second one, don’t tie off. Hold both pieces together and crochet around them, being sure to keep the shape of the ear. When you get back to the beginning, sl st into first sc and tie off.

Make two ears. Using yarn and your yarn needle, position and sew ears onto hat.

Horn

Using yellow (Simply Soft) yarn and F crochet hook, ch 10. Sl st to first ch to create a loop.

Rows 1-5: Sc in each stitch around. (10 stitches)

Row 6: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in each of the next 2 stitches. Repeat from * around, dec in last 2 stitches. (7 stitches)

Row 7: Sc in each stitch around. (7 stitches)

Row 8: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next stitch. Repeat from * around, sc in each of last 2 stitches. (5 stitches)

Row 9: Sc in each stitch around. (5 stitches)

Row 10: Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next stitch, dec in last 2 stitches. (3 stitches). Sl st to first stitch, tie off.

Stuff horn and sew onto center of hat. Using the other colors of Simply Soft, attach yarn to hat. You can decide on the length that you’d like. After I had the main attached, I went through and pulled each piece apart to make it a bit more wild.

Leg Warmers

Materials needed (with affiliate links):

F (3.75mm) crochet hook

Caron Simply Soft yarn in rainbow colors. You can choose the colors that you want here. I used 6 different colors that I happened to have here already because I used them for an octopus that I made.

Using purple and your F hook, ch. 20. Sl st to first ch to form a loop.

Row 1: Sc in second chain from hook and in each ch around. (20 stitches)

Rows 2-12: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches) Tie off.

I did 2 rows of each color.

Roller Skates

Materials needed (with affiliate links):

H (5mm) crochet hook

F (3.75mm) crochet hook

Caron Simply Soft yarn in black, white and grey.

Black embroidery thread

Yarn needle

Poly-fil

Skate

Using black yarn and H hook, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: Switch to white. *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 7: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Row 8: 7 sc, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, 8 sc. (20 stitches)

Row 9: 5 sc, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, 5 sc. (15 stitches)

Rows 10-13: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches) Tie off.

Wheels

Using grey yarn and F hook, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 8 sc inside of circle. (8 stitches)

Rows 2-6: Sc in each stitch around. (8 stitches)

Row 7: Stuff with poly-fil. Dec around. (4 stitches) You can tie off, or, if it’s not closed all the way, drop a sl st into the middle to close.

Make 4 wheels. Wrap yarn around the middle of each wheel. Sew wheels onto the bottom of the skates. I used hot glue and glued mine on. Using yarn needle and embroidery thread, “lace” each skate and tie a bow at the top.

Shoulder Bag

Materials needed (with affiliate links):

F (3.75mm) crochet hook

Caron Simply Soft yarn. I used ocean, but you can make it any color you want.

Yarn needle

Star button (This is optional. You don’t have to put a button on it, or you could use a different button if you want to.)

Bag

Ch 13

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn. (12 stitches)

Rows 2-24: Sc in each stitch across, ch 1, turn. (12 stitches) At the end of row 24, tie off. Fold in half and sew sides together. I attached a loop and sc’ed the sides together and across the bottom.

Handle

Ch 66

Row 1: Sc in second ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn. (65 stitches)

Row 2: Sc in each stitch across. Tie off. Using yarn needle, sew straps inside of bag. Attach button to the front of the bag.

For the monster inside of his bag, I used a 1.5mm crochet hook, Aunt Lydia’s crochet thread, 10mm safety eyes, and the pattern for my Yeti. I wanted him to stick out of the bag, and he was a bit short, so I put some poly-fil in there with him. You can crochet a monster for inside of the bag, or crochet something completely different if you’d like.

I hope you enjoy these patterns! I had a lot of interruptions while writing these out, with thunderstorms and 7 other people in my house, so if there are any mistakes, or something is unclear, please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know. Or message me on Facebook. If you create any monsters of your own, be sure to post a photo on my Facebook page so I can see. I love seeing all of the things people are creating, and I’d love to see the different variations that people make of these. And don’t forget to check out Camp Happy Heart Fibre Arts on Facebook to see all of the other wonderful creations she’s made.

 

 

 

 

This is Gunther. He likes unicorns and rainbows, and he would love the chance to spread love into your household. I can’t take credit for Gunther. He is totally the creation of Camp Happy Heart Fibre Arts. She knits some amazing monsters, and this is one of her creations. I loved him so much, so with her permission I’ve written up a crocheted pattern of him to share with all of you. If you’re a knitter, go check out Camp Happy Heart Fibre Arts on Facebook. She has a lot of wonderful monsters that she makes and sells, but she’s also working on a knitted pattern of this guy, so be sure to check back.

Meanwhile, here’s Gunther. After I made him, my daughter named him Gunther, and I have a whole series of these guys that I’m working on now. This post will give you the pattern to make the basic monster, but the accessories will be in other posts, so keep an eye out for them. *Update: You can find the patterns for his accessories here.

One of my favorite things to do is to look at a picture of something and try to figure out how to make it myself. This one was the most fun because it was a knitted monster, and I was figuring out how to crochet him and keep him as close to the original as possible. I’m not sure what kind of yarn she used, but I knew I wanted something thin and soft. I also knew I wanted to use yarn that would be easy for everybody to find in their local craft store. In the end, I decided baby yarn (size 3) would be best for the actual monsters because it gives you a tighter stitch so you don’t notice the stitches as much, and it’s super soft.

*side note* This is actually Gunther 2.0, because I originally made him differently, more like my yeti pattern. After I had that Gunther done, I wasn’t happy with him, so I started over from scratch. Gunther 2.0 was perfect.

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

inc: increase (2 single crochets in one loop)

dec: decrease (pull yarn through loop, pull yarn through second loop, yarn over and pull through all loops)

Materials needed (with affiliate links):

F (3.75mm) crochet hook

Baby yarn, or any size 3 yarn. For Gunther, I used Bernat baby sport in light lilac. I’m also making some using Loops and Threads Snuggly Wuggly yarn from Michaels.

15mm safety eyes

Black embroidery thread

Yarn needle

Poly-fil

Heart button (This is optional, of course. I found these heart buttons at Walmart, and they were very similar to the one on the original monster, so I picked them up for Gunther.)

This pattern is worked “in-the-round”, and stitches are worked through both loops unless otherwise noted. 

Body:

ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 8: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 9: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. (50 stitches)

Row 10: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 9 stitches, repeat from * around. (55 stitches)

Row 11: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 10 stitches, repeat from * around. (60 stitches)

Row 12: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 11 stitches, repeat from * around. (65 stitches)

Rows 13-63: Sc in each stitch around. (65 stitches)

Tie off, leaving open at the bottom.

Insert safety eyes between rows 18 and 19, with 12 sc’s in between eyes. (I like to put the poly-fil in before I insert the eyes so I can decide which side looks best for the front.) Stuff with poly-fil, and sew closed across the bottom. Using embroidery thread, sew on mouth.

Arms:

ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Rows 5-9: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Row 10: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Rows 11-14: Sc in each stitch around. (20 stitches)

Row 15: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Rows 16-30: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff with poly-fil to row 20, leaving the rest of the arm empty and flattened. You can make the arms shorter or longer by adding or subtracting rows, and you can change how full you stuff them as well.

Legs:

ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 7: Sc in each stitch around. (25 stitches)

Row 8: 7 sc, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, 8 sc. (20 stitches)

Row 9: 5 sc, dec, dec, dec, dec, dec, 5 sc. (15 stitches)

Rows 10-50: Sc in each stitch around. (15 stitches)

Tie off. Stuff with poly-fil to row 25, leaving the rest of the leg empty and flattened. You can also make the legs shorter or longer by adding or subtracting rows, and you can change how full you stuff them as well.

Sew legs to bottom of body, and sew arms onto each side. When laying flat, the end of the arm should be about at the end of the body. At this point, you can attach a button onto his body if you want to, using thread or yarn.

And now you have your finished monster.

Gunther is sitting on a shelf in my bedroom, and I absolutely love him. He’s definitely one of my favorite things that I’ve made. I also made Gunther a friend, Gus, using Loops and Threads Woolike yarn, which is a size 1, so Gus ended up really small.

Next week, I’ll be posting Gunther’s accessories, so stay tuned. *Update: His accessories have been posted! You can find them here. I’m working on a few more monsters, with different accessories. You can make separate monsters, or you can just make one monster with all of the different accessories so he can play dress up.

I hope you enjoy this pattern! If there are any mistakes, or something is unclear, please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know. Or message me on Facebook. If you create any monsters of your own, be sure to post a photo on my Facebook page so I can see. I love seeing all of the things people are creating, and I’d love to see the different variations that people make of these. And don’t forget to check out Camp Happy Heart Fibre Arts on Facebook to see all of the other wonderful creations she’s made.

A couple of years ago, I made some cute cacti and put them in pots on a shelf in my bedroom. I made those ones with Red Heart yarn, and they were pretty big, but I wrote down the pattern as I made them. A couple of weeks ago, I picked up a bunch of Aunt Lydia’s crochet thread and started making some mini projects. I’ve never really crocheted with thread before, so it took me awhile to get my stitches as tight as I wanted them. I worked up a couple of my patterns using this thread, but the mini cactus is definitely my favorite. It looks adorable sitting on my shelf, but they also make great pin cushions.

There are 2 different styles you can do, but the best thing about them is that they’re each unique.

If you want a pattern that you can save on your computer and easily print, this pattern is available in my Ravelry shop for only $2.00. I love printing patterns and saving them in a binder to keep track of the ones I’ve done and the ones I still plan to do.

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

sl st: slip stitch

inc: increase (2 single crochets in one loop)

dec: decrease (pull yarn through loop, pull yarn through second loop, yarn over and pull through all loops)

Materials needed (with affiliate links):

1.5mm crochet hook

Aunt Lydia’s crochet thread size 10. You can choose the colors you want to use. I used aqua because I wanted them to be darker, but the mint green would also be cute. I used a brown for the dirt, then used a few other colors to do some quick flowers for some of them.

10mm safety eyes

Black embroidery thread

Yarn needle

Poly-fil

Small clay pot

This pattern is worked “in-the-round”, and stitches are worked through both loops unless otherwise noted. At the end of each row, I slip stitch then chain 1 and turn it, working the next row in the opposite direction. If you’d like, you can skip turning it and continue working in the same direction throughout the pattern.

Head:

ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 6: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 7: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 8: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 9: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 10: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 9 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Rows 11-21: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 22: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 9 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 23: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 8 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 24: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 7 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 25: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 26: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 27: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, tie off.

Long Stem:

ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Rows 5-10: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 11: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, tie off.

Rows 12-19: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn. Tie off after row 19.

Short Stem:

ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Rows 5-8: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 9: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, tie off.

Rows 10-13: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn. Tie off after row 13.

Round Stem:

ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Rows 4-8: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 9: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, tie off.

Row 10: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, tie off.

Dirt: 

ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next stitch , repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 4: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 5: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 4 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Rows 6-8: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 9: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 5 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 10: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 11: *Inc in first stitch, sc in next 6 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Rows 12-17: Sc in each stitch around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 18: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 3 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 19: *Dec in first 2 stitches, sc in next 2 stitches, repeat from * around. Sl st to first sc, tie off.

Stuff head with poly-fil. Stuff stems, position and sew onto the top of the head. Attach safety eyes and sew mouth on. Stuff dirt, making sure you don’t stuff it so full that it won’t fit in the pot. Sew head to dirt.

You can make little flowers to sew onto them if you’d like. There are a lot of different free flower patterns on the internet, so try a couple of them to find ones that you like.

Here are the ones I made with Red Heart yarn and put in bigger pots:

I used blush and applied it to the cheeks of my bigger ones. You can do that on your mini ones if you’d like too. I was planning to put blush on my minis, but I haven’t gotten around to it yet. I also plan to make some other flowers for my bare ones, but I think I’ll look for a different flower pattern for them.

I hope you enjoy my cactus pattern! If there are any mistakes in this pattern, or something is unclear, please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know. Or message me on Facebook. If you create any cacti of your own, be sure to post a photo on my Facebook page so I can see. I love seeing all of the things people are creating, and I’d love to see the different variations that people make of these.

As always, you are welcome to create items from my patterns and sell them, as long as you don’t post the actual pattern anywhere. And if you want to post a link to the pattern, or give me credit, that’s perfectly fine with me. 🙂

 

It’s been snowing so much here in Spokane, Washington. Last Saturday, it started snowing again right before I went in to work. So while I was there, I grabbed some yarn to make myself a yeti. I had fun with this pattern, and I love how he turned out. So this is Eddie the lonely Yeti. I made him a couple of friends, so he wouldn’t be lonely anymore. I just got the photos all edited, and got the pattern written up in time for the weekend.

If you want a pattern that you can save on your computer and easily print, this pattern is available in my Ravelry shop for only $2.00. I love printing patterns and saving them in a binder to keep track of the ones I’ve done and the ones I still plan to do.

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

st: stitch(es)

sl st: slip stitch

inc: increase (2 single crochets in one loop)

dec: decrease (pull yarn through loop, pull yarn through second loop, yarn over and pull through all loops)

Materials needed (with affiliate links):

Any medium weight yarn will work. I used Vanna’s Choice Lion Brand yarn in white and dusty blue for Eddie, but in the example photos I was making Betty and I used white and aqua.

I (5.25mm) crochet hook. (Or 1 hook size down from the recommended size for the yarn you’re using.)

Safety eyes that look right for size. I used 18mm.

Black embroidery thread or black yarn, or other colors depending on what you want its face to look like.

Yarn needle.

Poly-fil.

Body:

Ch. 11

Row 1: This is worked around the chain you just made. Sc in 2nd chain from hook and in each across, working 3 sc’s into the last ch. Turn and work in the other loop of the chain and sc across, working 2 sc’s in last ch. St st to 1st sc, ch. 1. (22 total stitches)

Row 2: 2 sc in first st, sc in next 8 st, work 2 sc’s in each of the next 3 st, sc in next 8, work 2 sc’s in each of the next 2. St sl to 1st sc, ch. 1. (28 total stitches)

Row 3: 2 sc in first st, sc in next 11 st, work 2 sc’s in each of the next 3 st, sc in next 11, work 2 sc’s in each of the next 2. St sl to 1st sc, ch. 1. (34 total stitches)

Row 4: 2 sc in first st, sc in next 14 st, work 2 sc’s in each of the next 3 st, sc in next 14, work 2 sc’s in each of the next 2. St sl to 1st sc, ch. 1. (40 total stitches)

Row 5-20: Sc in each st around. Sl st. to first sc, ch. 1. (40 total stitches)

Do not tie off. Now that the body is finished, you’ll start working on the first leg.

Leg:

Row 1: Sc in first 10 stitches. Skip 20 stitches and sc in last 10 stitches. Sl st to first sc, ch. 1. (20 total stitches)

Row 2-3: Sc in each st around. Sl st to first sc, ch. 1. (20 total stitches)

Row 4-5: Switch to blue. Sc in each st around. Sl st to first sc, ch. 1. (20 total stitches)

Row 6: Dec, sc in next 3 st. Repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch. 1. (16 total stitches)

Row 7: Dec, sc in next 2 st. Repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch. 1. (12 total stitches)

Row 8: Dec, sc in next st. Repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch. 1. (8 total stitches)

Row 9: Dec around. Sl st to first sc. Tie off. (4 total stitches) If needed, you can sl st the opening closed.

Attach white yarn to other side and repeat rows 1-9 for the other leg.

You can stuff the body with poly-fil before making the 2nd leg if you’d like, but I just stuff it when I’m done with the legs using the hole that is in between them. Then I use some yarn and a yarn needle to sew the hole closed.

And now you have the finished body.

Arms:

With blue yarn, ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. Sl st to first sc, ch 1. (10 total stitches)

Row 2: Inc, sc in next st. Repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1. (15 total stitches)

Row 3: Inc, sc in next 2 st. Repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1. (20 total stitches)

Row 4: Dec, sc in next 2 st. Repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch. 1. (15 total stitches)

Row 5: Sc around. Sl st to first sc, ch. 1. (15 total stitches)

Row 6: Switch to white. Sc around. Sl st to first sc, ch. 1. (15 total stitches)

Row 7: Dec, sc in next st. Repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch. 1. (10 total stitches)

Row 8-13: Sc around. Sl st to first sc, ch. 1. Tie off at the end. Stuff with poly-pil and sew onto each side of body.

Face:

With blue yarn, ch. 9

Row 1-8: Sc across, ch. 1, turn. (8 total stitches)

Now work around the square. 3 sc in first st (on top), sc in next 6 st, 3 sc in last st. Turn and work 7 sc in the side. Turn and work 3 sc in first ch (on bottom), sc in next 6 ch, 3 sc in last ch. Turn and work 7 sc in the side. You should have 38 total sc’s around the square. Sl st to first sc, tie off.

Add eyes and sew on mouth. I added felt underneath the safety eyes on some of them to make them look different. Now, using your yarn needle and blue yarn, position and sew the face onto the body.

For Betty the Yeti, I also added some “hair” on the top of her head and pulled the threads apart to make it curly. I made her a quick bow and attached it to her head too.

Originally, when I had the idea to make a yeti, I bought Bernat Pipsqueak yarn in white and Loops and Threads Snuggly Wuggly yarn in cobalt, because I wanted to make it really soft and furry. I realized, though, that for creating the pattern I needed a yarn that I could see the stitches. If you’ve never worked with Pipsqueak yarn before, let me tell you, it’s a bit of a pain because you can’t see any of the stitches. Once I had the pattern written up, though, it was pretty easy to make another yeti using my original yarn. So here is Freddy the Yeti. (He’s my favorite, but don’t tell the others.)

I’m really happy with the way these turned out, and I hope you enjoy making them too. If there are any mistakes in this pattern, or something is unclear, please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know. Or message me on Facebook, because I’m there much more often. If you create any yetis of your own, be sure to post a photo on my Facebook page so I can see. I’m excited to see what kind of faces you guys put on these. Oh, and as always, you’re free to make items from my patterns and sell them, as long as you don’t post the actual pattern anywhere. (Links back to my page are always acceptable.)

Fall is my favorite time of the year. I love when it starts getting colder out, and all of the leaves start changing and falling on the ground. But my favorite part of fall is the anticipation of winter. I get sick of winter, and I often dread it, but I always love that anticipation, especially waiting for the first snowfall. It always reminds me of my dad. He loved winter, and he would anxiously wait for snow to fall, and get excited when it did.

The colder weather makes me want to curl up under a blanket with some hot cocoa and yarn, and watch movies all day. If only I didn’t have to go out in that snow, I would want winter all year. But for those times when I have to be an actual adult, it’s nice to have a warm (and cute!) hat and scarf set to wear.

I love the v-stitch, especially for infinity scarves. It works up so quickly, and it looks nice. I make v-stitch infinity scarves for me and my girls every year, but this year I decided we needed a v-stitch slouch hat to go with it. Since I bought a lot of the Caron Cakes last time my Michaels had them in stock, I thought it would work well with these patterns. Oh, and in case you didn’t hear, Caron Cakes are coming back into stock this weekend, and they’ve extended them for a year. If you have a different yarn you’d rather use, this pattern will work for any of it really.

If you want a pattern that you can save on your computer and easily print, this pattern is available in my Ravelry shop for only $2.00. I love printing patterns and saving them in a binder to keep track of the ones I’ve done and the ones I still plan to do.

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

dc: double crochet

sl st: slip stitch

Materials needed (with affiliate links):

2 balls of Caron cakes (or whatever yarn you’ve chosen to use) You may be able to finish the whole set using just 1 ball of the Caron Cakes, but I wanted all of the colors in mine, so I used 2 of them and switched colors when needed.

6 mm (J) hook (or size needed for the type of yarn you’re using)

Yarn needle

Buttons (if you’re making an ear warmer and you choose to use them)

Infinity Scarf/Ear Warmer:

Ch 225 for the scarf, or ch 74 for the ear warmer. You can chain more or less to adjust the size.

Keeping the chain straight, sl st into first ch.

Now you should have a circle:

Round 1: Ch 4 (this is your first dc plus a ch 1), dc in same space you slip stitched into. *Skip 2 ch, in next ch dc, ch 1, dc. Repeat from * around.

If you get to the end and you have an extra ch, you can skip 3. This is a very forgiving stitch, and it won’t effect the outcome of the project. At the end, sl st to the 3rd ch in your ch 4.

Round 2: Continuing around in the same direction, sl st into the first ch 1 space. Ch 4, dc into space. In each ch 1 space around, dc, ch 1, dc.

As you can see, this stitch makes a “v” and looks quite nice together. Using the Caron Cakes, I changed colors every 2 rows so I could control the colors that were in my scarf.

Continue until it reaches the width that you want it. For scarves, I usually do 9 or 10 rows:

For ear warmers/headbands, I stick to 8 rows:

When it gets to the width you want it, tie off and weave in any loose ends. If you’re adding buttons to the ear warmer, I use the same yarn to attach them.

Hat:

Starting with your base color (the color you want at the bottom of the hat), ch 11.

Ribbing row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, ch 1, turn.

Ribbing rows 2-60: Working in 1 loop only, sc across, ch 1, turn. By working in only 1 loop, you created a textured ribbing for your hat.

With the Caron Cakes, I did 60 rows for the ribbing to go around our heads. You can make the hat bigger or smaller by crocheting more or less rows, but remember that you want some stretch to this so it stays on.

Holding both ends together, ch 1, sc across to close up hat.

This creates a seam in your hat so this will be the inside when you’re finished.

Round 1: Ch 1. Working across the top of the hat, evenly space 66 sc around.

I find it’s helpful to make sure you’re working with the same color that you did the ribbing in so that this row doesn’t stand out too much. From this point, the hat will be working “in the round.”

Round 2: Sl st to first sc. Ch 4 (this is your first dc plus a ch 1), dc in same space you slip stitched into. *Skip 2 ch, in next ch dc, ch 1, dc. Repeat from * around.

At the end, sl st to the 3rd ch in your ch 4.

Round 3: Continuing around in the same direction, sl st into the first ch 1 space. Ch 4, dc into space. In each ch 1 space around, dc, ch 1, dc.

Continue until your hat reaches the length that you want it. I did 14-16 rows on all of the hats that I made. Making it longer will make it slouch more, but remember that if you’re attaching a ball at the end, it may pull it off of your head if it slouches too much.

When you get to the end, tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Using your yarn needle, weave the yarn in and out of each v-stitch:

When you get back to the beginning, pull the yarn tight to close up the top. You can put a few stitches into the top to close it tighter if you’d like to. Tie the yarn to one of the stitches to finish it.

Weave in any loose ends, and flip the hat around.

You can leave the hat like this if you’d like, but I really felt like it needed a pom-pom at the top of it. I love making pom-poms. I don’t have any of the pom-pom makers that you can buy, though. I just use whatever round object I have nearby that is the right size to make the pom-pom the size that I want it.

In this case, I used my Yoda kaleidoscope. I used each color from my Caron Cakes and wrapped it around until it was as thick as I wanted it. Then, I slipped the yarn off of the kaleidoscope and onto a piece of yarn.

Centering the yarn around the ball, I tied it tight.

Then I cut the loops on each side.

Once all of the loops were cut, I trimmed it all (making sure not to cut the piece I tied it with) until it was a fluffy ball, perfect for the top of my hat.

I used that long piece and pulled it through the top, then tied it on the inside and trimmed it. And voila, my hat was finished.

I made quite a few of these sets to test out my pattern, and so that each of us girls would have one to wear. Plus, I just couldn’t resist all of these colors that the Caron Cakes come in.

And because I couldn’t resist, I made myself an extra warm set using this yummy Loops and Threads Alpaca yarn.

I hope you love this v-stitch set as much as I do. If there are any mistakes in this pattern, or something is unclear, please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know. Or message me on Facebook. If you create any of these, be sure to post a photo on my Facebook page so I can see.

 

 

It’s I LOVE YARN day! In honor of this day, I spent some time searching for tutorials for all of you left-handers out there who are just learning how to crochet. There are tons of videos on YouTube, where you can learn how to do pretty much anything you want. There are definitely more videos for right-handed people, but if you do a quick search you’ll find a lot of left-handed videos too. Here are a couple that I found to get you started:

This one from the Crochet Crowd is actually very detailed, and is a great way to get started. Plus, I love Mikey, and he’s fun to learn from.

If you want to just focus on single crochet, here is a great video from Crochet Ever After. I feel like it’s good to learn from a few different people, so you can find the way that works best for you.

And for all of you who struggle with the Magic Ring technique, here’s a video that shows you how to do it, step by step. I use the Magic Ring for any crochet that I’m doing in the round, from amigurami to winter hats.

If you’ve already learned the basic steps, and you’re ready to start creating things, The Crochet Crowd has put all of their left-handed tutorials on one YouTube channel to make it easier to find them.

That’s just a small sample of the videos you can find on YouTube, but it’s a great place to start. If you’re more the type of person who learns from written material, or you just don’t feel like following along with a video, I also found this great tutorial that Red Heart Yarn did, complete with written instructions and photos.

Moogly also has tutorials for left-handers, and has put them all in one post so you don’t have to search for them.

And finally, if you’re having a hard time understanding patterns, I found this site that helps explain how to read them. All patterns are written a bit differently, of course, but if you understand the basics, it will help you to decipher each individual designers “language” that they use.

I hope these links help any of you who are new to crocheting. I’ve been doing it since I was about 12 years old. I’ve had a lot of hobbies over the years, but crocheting is the one I always come back to. It’s always fun to see what beautiful things you can make just by tying knots, and it’s definitely my most relaxing hobby.

If you still need more help, or you want to learn something that isn’t covered here, message me on Facebook, and I’ll see what I can do. Happy crocheting!!

 

I have been making a frenzy of octopuses…..octopuses? Is that the plural of octopus? I always call them octopi.

This is a fun pattern that I worked up, and can be done with virtually any yarn. I always use 1 hook size down from the recommended for each kind of yarn, just to make sure the stitches are nice and tight and won’t show any of the stuffing. I have a lot of different sizes of safety eyes that I’ve purchased from many different places, so I decide on the eyes as I’m working on the pattern.

If you want a pattern that you can save on your computer and easily print, this pattern is available in my Ravelry shop for only $2.00. I love printing patterns and saving them in a binder to keep track of the ones I’ve done and the ones I still plan to do.

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

sl st: slip stitch

inc: increase (2 single crochets in one loop)

dec: decrease (pull yarn through loop, pull yarn through second loop, yarn over and pull through all loops)

Materials needed (with affiliate links):

Crochet hook one size down from recommended size

Any yarn will work

Safety eyes that look right for size

Black embroidery thread or black yarn

Yarn needle

Poly-fil

Body:

ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc, 1 sc , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc, 2 sc, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc, 3 sc, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 5: *Inc, 4 sc, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Row 6: *Inc, 5 sc, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 7: *Inc, 6 sc, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 8: *Inc, 7 sc, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 9: *Inc, 8 sc, repeat from * around. (50 stitches)

Rows 10-19: Sc around. (50 stitches)

Row 20: *Dec, 8 sc, repeat from * around. (45 stitches)

Row 21: *Dec, 7 sc, repeat from * around. (40 stitches)

Row 22: *Dec, 6 sc, repeat from * around. (35 stitches)

Row 23: *Dec, 5 sc, repeat from * around. (30 stitches)

Stop here to stuff the body, position the eyes and sew on the mouth before continuing, filling the rest of the body as you go.

Row 24: *Dec, 4 sc, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

Row 25: *Dec, 3 sc, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 26: *Dec, 2 sc, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 27: *Dec, 1 sc, repeat from * around. (10 stitches)

Row 28: Dec around. (5 stitches)

If there’s still an opening at the bottom, you can use a slip stitch to close. Tie off.

Legs (make 8):

ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. (10 stitches)

Row 2: *Inc, 1 sc , repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Row 3: *Inc, 2 sc, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Row 4: *Inc, 3 sc, repeat from * around. (25 stitches)

If you’re using a different color for the feet, change colors now.

Row 5: *Dec, 3 sc, repeat from * around. (20 stitches)

Rows 6-7: Sc around. (20 stitches)

Row 8: *Dec, 2 sc, repeat from * around. (15 stitches)

Rows 9-10: Sc around. (15 stitches)

Row 11: *Dec, 1 sc, repeat from * around. (10 stitches)

Rows 12-13: Sc around. (10 stitches)

For the first 7 legs, tie off. Stuff the legs halfway, pushing the stuffing towards the foot.

With the 8th leg, instead of tying off, ch 1 and sc across the top of each leg, connecting them and closing the opening up.

Once they’re all connected, they should look like this:

Slip stitch to the first sc across the top to form a ring:

Tie off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Flip the octopus body upside down and center the leg ring on it.

Using your yarn needle, sew the legs to the body all the way around.

The bottom of your octopus will look like this:

Now flip your octopus over and check out how cute he is!

At this point, you can add any other things you want, like a flower or a top hat.

For this one, I even made her a hat because she insisted that she was a cat:

Using thinner yarn, you can make these guys smaller too.

This is a fun pattern, and I love how adorable they are. If there are any mistakes in this pattern, or something is unclear, please feel free to leave me a comment and let me know. Or message me on Facebook. If you create any octopi of your own, be sure to post a photo on my Facebook page so I can see.

After making my elephant baby blanket and my fish and duck baby blanket, a friend wanted to know if I could do a sheep blanket for her grandson. Inspired by Repeat Crafter Me’s bobble stitch sheep, I turned her pattern into one that would be usable for a bobble stitch blanket or a C2C.

I used Loops and Threads Snuggly Wuggly yarn, which I absolutely love for these baby blankets. It’s light enough that it doesn’t make the blanket too thick, but very soft for babies. I was also able to find multiple colors of blue and grey, which worked out perfectly for this blanket.

After sewing each piece together, I did a border with some simple single crochets, then added the scalloped edging. I like this edging for baby blankets because it’s easy to do, but it gives them a softer touch.

I wanted to make a stuffed sheep to go with the blanket, and there are so many cute (and some of them are free) patterns out there. However, I fell in love with this bobble sheep because it went so well with the bobble blanket.

I purchased the pattern from Amigurumi Patterns, and it was well worth the money. He was easy to make, and so soft and cuddly. I considered making a little scarf for him using one of the blues, but since it was for a baby, I decided to skip it.

I hope this graph comes in handy for all of those sheep lovers out there. I would absolutely love to see how this looks as a C2C blanket, so if you use this graph, go post a photo to my Facebook page and show me how it turned out.

A few weeks ago, I made myself a little goldfish to put in a plastic fish bowl for my grandson. My boyfriend said he wanted one for his desk, but I decided he needed a shark instead. I worked up this quick little shark for him, and in honor of Shark Week, I wanted to share it.

This is a quick and easy pattern, but I love his toothy grin.

Abbreviations:

ch: chain

sc: single crochet

sl st: slip stitch

inc: increase (2 single crochets in one loop)

dec: decrease (pull yarn through loop, pull yarn through second loop, yarn over and pull through all loops)

Materials needed (with affiliate links):

4.25 MM (G) crochet hook

Caron Simply Soft yarn in Grey Heather

15mm safety eyes

White and black embroidery thread

Yarn needle

Poly-fil

Body:

ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 10 sc inside of circle. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: Inc, 1 sc , repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 3: Inc, 2 sc, repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 4: Inc, 3 sc, repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 5: Inc, 4 sc, repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Rows 6-11: Sc around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Attach eyes between rows 4 and 5. Sew on eyebrows and teeth. Begin stuffing with poly-fil. Stop periodically to stuff as you go.

Row 12: Dec, 4 sc, repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Rows 13-15: Sc around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 16: Dec, 3 sc, repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Rows 17-18: Sc around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 19: Dec, 2 sc, repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 20: Sc around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Finish stuffing.

Row 21: Dec, 1 sc, repeat around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 22: Dec around. Sl st to first sc, tie off.

Side Fins (make 2):

ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 4 sc inside of circle. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: Sc around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 3:  Inc in each sc around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 4: Sc around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 5: Sc around. Sl st to first sc, tie off.

Flatten, do not stuff, and sew evenly onto sides of shark.

Top Fin:

ch 3. Sl st to first ch to create circle. (Instead, you can perform the “magic circle” if you’d like.)

Row 1: ch 1, 4 sc inside of circle. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 2: Sc around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 3:  Inc in each sc around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 4: Sc around. Sl st to first sc, ch 1, turn.

Row 5: Inc, 1 sc, repeat around. Sl st to first sc, tie off.

Flatten, do not stuff, and sew onto top of shark.

And there’s your little, mini shark. Be sure to check out these other shark patterns from these wonderful crocheters.

Crochet Amigurami Shark by 1 Dog Woof

I love this cute, round shark. It reminds me of the narwhal I made last year. I’ll have to work on getting  my narwhal pattern posted, but in the meantime, I think he could use a shark friend.

Shark Time Pouch on Moogly

This is such a cute idea, but I think when I make it, I’ll use it to store all of my crochet hooks.

Shark Snuggle Sack by the Crochet Crowd

There are many patterns for things like this on the internet, but I love the Crochet Crowd because they also include video tutorials for right-handed AND left-handed crocheters.

Crochet Shark Hat by Repeat Crafter Me

For the longest time, hats were the main things that I made. I’ve been making a lot of other things lately, but in the fall I’ll go back to making hats. This one is at the top of my list. I absolutely love it!

Crochet Gummy Shark Scarf by Twinkie Chan

My daughter used to love eating gummy sharks. I think she would flip for a gummy shark scarf. Twinkie Chan has some of the best patterns. Although this one is a paid pattern, it’s totally worth it.

Crochet Shark Slippers by Stacie L. Ratcliff

This is another paid pattern, but how could you resist these adorable shark slippers? The pattern comes in infant, women’s and men’s sizes. I might need to make some for my grandson, and some for my son.

Seen any other great shark patterns? Go find me on Facebook and share them with me.

My 1-year-old grandson is obsessed with ducks. He’s also recently started loving fish. I decided to design him a pillow and blanket set with ducks and fish. Here’s the graph that I worked up for this project:

It took me awhile to find the yarn that I wanted to use. I decided on Loops and Threads Snuggly Wuggly yarn in dark turquoise, silly sprite and yellow. I used Caron Simply Soft in black and white for the eyes, and I used Red Heart’s Anne Geddes Baby yarn in tangerine for the duck’s beak. I loved the color combinations. I used an H hook and worked each piece using my modified bobble stitch. This would also work great as a C2C blanket.

When I worked up the graph, I thought I would look for more of a green color for the background, but this dark turquoise was just too gorgeous to pass up. I used my alphabet graph to do his name at the top.

I sewed each piece together using a simple single crochet. When I pieced it all together, I didn’t have the graph open in front of me, so you’ll notice that the ducks and fish are swapped. It didn’t really matter to much to me, though, as long as they were facing each other and each fish and duck were diagonal from the other one.

Once the blanket was sewn together, I did a simple single crochet edging, then did some scallops in yellow.

Next came the pillows. I was originally going to just do one pillow with a fish on one side and a duck on the other, but then I remembered that I had this round pillow I bought awhile ago and hadn’t used yet. So I turned it into a fish.

I didn’t write down a pattern for this fish pillow, but if you want to make a great fish pillow with lots of fun textures, go check out this fish pillow pattern by Accessorize This.

For the duck pillow, I added a few more rows all the way around to make it fit. I was going to do a duck on each side, but I really wanted it to have a front and a back. And I am still in love with this color combination on the back of the pillow.

My Moonpie loves the whole set. I kept showing him the blanket as I was working on it, and he would put the pieces on his head, or lay his head down on it and snuggle it. I wanted to get a good picture of him with the set, but they were doing some construction on the house next door so he was a bit distracted.

I hope this graph comes in handy for all of those duck or fish lovers out there. I would absolutely love to see how this looks as a C2C blanket, or how it looks with other colors or just ducks or fish, so if you use this graph, go post a photo to my Facebook page and show me how it turned out.